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Biennale des Antiquaires 2012 – The Olympics Of High Jewelry (Part 1)

Boucheron - Bouquet d’Ailes ring set with emeralds, colored sapphires, fine stones and diamonds

Every two years the fine jewelry houses of the Place Vendôme present their newest high jewelry pieces to the public.  From September 14th to the 23rd, the 26th Biennale des Antiquaires will showcase exclusive selections from 150 exhibitors at the Grand Palais in Paris.  The soaring arched steel and glistening glass ceiling of the turn of the century building will house the world’s best antique and art dealers, with the most popular exhibitors being the famed jewelers:  Boucheron, Cartier, Chanel, Chaumet, Dior, Harry Winston, Piaget, Van Cleef & Arpels with newcomers Bulgari and Chinese jeweler Wallace Chan.  Ever so kindly, they gave the press a glimpse of what’s to come next month, whetting everyone’s jewelry appetite with extraordinary pieces of high art and jewelry craftsmanship.

In the interest of time and extended intrigue, this post will be written in three installments, with today’s showcasing works from Boucheron, Cartier and Chanel.

 1.  Boucheron

Returning from an eight year absence at the Biennale, Boucheron debuts its L’Artisan du Rêve collection this year under the direction of newly appointed head of creation, Claire Choisne.  The pieces in this collection breath fresh air into archived pieces with elements iconic to the jewelry house like the snake, transformable pieces and the chameleon.  Comprised of 10 small collections of pieces, L’Artisan du Rêve is a spectacular debut for the century old Maison.

Boucheron Bouquet d’Ailes necklace set with emeralds, colored sapphires, fine stones and diamonds. – photo via Boucheron

Boucheron Bouquet d’Ailes brooch set with colored sapphires, fine stones and diamonds. – photo via Boucheron

Boucheron Bouquet d’Ailes brooch set with emeralds, colored sapphires, fine stones and diamonds. – photo via Boucheron

Boucheron Serpent diamond, opal and rock crystal necklace. – photo via Boucheron

Boucheron Mosaique Delilah diamond and colored sapphire earrings. – photo via Boucheron

Boucheron Lierre de Paris rough and faceted diamond necklace. – photo via Boucheron

Boucheron Lierre de Paris rough and faceted diamond studs. – photos via Boucheron

Boucheron Plume de Paon emerald and diamond necklace. – photo via Boucheron

Boucheron Plume de Paon emerald and diamond ring. – photo via Boucheron


2.  Cartier

Since 1964 Cartier has remained a staple at the Biennale, this year is no different.  With 148 pieces of high jewelry and twelve precious objects from the Cartier Tradition collection, the jewelry house aims to excite the senses with a variety of color palettes, settings and dazzling stones that all express movement interpreted into different landscapes:  Temporal, Luxiariant, Solar, Boreal, and Urban.  Of course, no Cartier collection is complete without its iconic Panther, brought to life in a new ring as it coyly attempts to snatch the center stone with its tail.

Cartier Biennale Lion Ring – Platinum, one cushion-cut sapphire, onyx spots and snout, emerald eyes, brilliants. PHOTO Vincent Wulveryck © Cartier 2012

Cartier Kunzite and diamond secret watch. – photo via Cartier

Cartier Biennale Necklace – Platinum, one 236.27-carat aquamarine, one natural pearl, facetted aquamarine beads, baguette-cut diamonds, brilliants. PHOTO – Vincent Wulveryck © Cartier 2012

Cartier Biennale ring – White gold, one pear-shaped diamond, rock crystal, brilliants. PHOTO Vincent Wulveryck © Cartier 2012

Cartier Biennale Bracelet – White gold, onyx, brilliants. PHOTO Vincent Wulveryck © Cartier 2012


3.  Chanel

In 1932 Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel introduced Bijoux de Diamants collection, which the famed house revisits to celebrate its 80th anniversary collection to be showcased this September.  Inspired by motifs beloved by Madame Chanel and seen throughout collections past, including stars, comets, suns, fringes, ribbons, feathers and her zodiac sign Leo the lion, Chanel has crafted 80 spectacular pieces that would surely make Madame Chanel very proud.

Chanel “Constellation du Lion” ring in 18-karat white and yellow gold set with 145 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 2.4 carats, a 10-carat cushion-cut yellow diamond and a 70-carat fancy-cut golden rutilated quartz. – photo via Chanel

Constellation du Lion necklace, in 18 carat white and yellow gold, with 159 baguette-cut diamonds, 878 brilliant-cut diamonds, 32 yellow diamonds, and quartz. – photo via Chanel

Chanel “Plume enchantée” earrings in 18-karat white gold set with 243 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 4.8 carats, 4 pear-cut diamonds, 142 round-cut pink sapphires for a total weight of 11.8 carats and 16 pear-cut pink sapphires for a total weight of 10.6 carats. – photo via Chanel

Chanel “Céleste” brooch in 18-karat white gold set with 881 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 12.6 carats, 24 baguette-cut diamonds for a total weight of 2 carats, a 79.3- carat Australian baroque cultured pearl, 3 Indonesian cultured pearls of 7.6 to 11.1mm diameter and 15 Japanese cultured pearls of 2.5 to 4mm diameter. – photo via Chanel

Chanel Couture earrings in 18K white gold, set with 274 round-cut white diamonds for a total weight of 2,5 carats, 16 baguette-cut white diamonds for a total weight of 1,5 carat and 236 brilliant-cut black diamonds for a total weight of 1,5 carat. – photo via Chanel

Chanel “Nuit de Diamants” necklace in 18-karat white gold set with 319 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 11.9 carats 7 round-cut diamonds for a total weight of 2.9 carats and facetted black-diamond beads for a total weight of 453.3 carats. – photo via Chanel

Chanel “Clair-obscur” cuff in 18-karat white gold set with 348 round-cut diamonds for a total weight of 9.4 carats and titanium. – photo via Chanel

Chanel “1932” ring in 18-karat white gold set with a 1.5-carat princess-cut diamond and 238 round-cut diamonds for a total weight of 1.5 carat. – photo via Chanel

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2 Comments

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    Biennale des Antiquaires 2012 – The Olympics Of High Jewelry (Part 2) | Jewels du Jour
    August 24, 2012 at 11:08 am

    […] yesterday’s first part of the three part series previewing the high jewelry collections that will be showcased at the 26th […]

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    March 17, 2013 at 4:22 pm

    To C.C.and you know who I mean!

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