Doyle New York – Important Estate Jewelry – October 17th, 2012 (Part 1)

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While Christie’s and Sotheby’s flex their might in big jewels, Doyle New York shows its strength in jewelry with lots of character.  Amongst the 656 lots in their Fall Important Estate Jewelry auction are plenty of whimsical animals full of quirky attributes.  Other pieces that drew my attention are the numerous Buccellati pieces, especially the Crab Cuff Bracelet (Lot 525).  The lots also span a wide range of jewelry periods, making this auction a wonderful jewelry history tutorial with excellent examples to match.  As usual, here is the first part of my selections of those particular pieces that I found more special than the rest.

 

Lot 234 – Platinum, White Gold, Diamond, Pearl and Nephrite Pendant-Brooch

One old European-cut diamond ap. .50 ct., 148 old European & single-cut diamonds ap. 4.50 cts., one nephrite disc ap. 54.0 mm., center panel c. 1910.

C Collection of Paige Rense
Estimate $2,000-3,000

Sold for $8,125

 

Lot 654 – Platinum and Diamond Bracelet, David Webb

Centering an openwork diamond set ring, edged with 8 round diamonds, flanked by two diamond-set flower petals, completed by a bombe bracelet set with a diagonal pattern of rectangular-cut and round diamonds, tipped by marquise-shaped diamonds, totaling 203 round, 52 rectangular-cut and 54 marquise-shaped diamonds approximately 70.65 cts., signed David Webb, approximately 80.2 dwt.
Length 6 3/16 inches.

With certificate of authenticity from David Webb.

C Estate of Suzanne M. Cohen
Estimate $100,000-150,000

Sold for $134,500

 

Lot 373 – Gold and Cabochon Emerald Horse Head Clip-Brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels

18 kt., the circular brooch centering a polished gold horse head, accented by 2 round cabochon emerald eyes, highlighted by a textured gold mane and tail, signed VCA, no. 1 K281-1, approximately 36.4 dwt.

Estimate $2,500-3,500

Sold for $10,000

Lot 330 – Pair of Gold and Ruby Bead Earclips, Gianmaria Buccellati

18 kt., topped by pairs of finely textured gold leaves, accented by polished gold stems and veins, suspending clusters of 14 ruby beads approximately 3.8 mm., signed Gianmaria Buccellati, Italy, approximately 7 dwt.

Estimate $2,000-3,000

Sold for $3,125

 

Lot 19 – Gold, Lapis, Dyed Green Chalcedony and Diamond Fish Link Bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels

18 kt., signed VCA, ’74, no. B2054150, ap. 7.8 dwt. Length 6 3/4 inches.

Estimate $1,500-2,000

Sold for $4,375

 

Lot 615 – Double Strand Seed Pearl, Platinum, Black Onyx, Rock Crystal and Diamond Sautoir

The necklace composed of a double strand of seed pearls, spaced by faceted cylinder and round black onyx beads, flanked by rock crystal faceted rondels, suspending a pierced elongated diamond-set rectangular-shaped panel, accented by black onyx, joined by a black onyx bead approximately 14.4 mm., suspending a multistrand seed pearl fringe, capped by black onyx alternating with faceted rock crystal, edged by rose-cut diamonds. Length 31 1/8 inches.

Estimate $6,000-8,000

Sold for $7,500

 

Lot 652 – Art Deco Platinum, Emerald and Diamond Ring, Dreicer & Co.

Centering one rectangular step-cut emerald approximately 3.85 cts., accented by single-cut diamonds, signed Dreicer & Co., circa 1920. Size 2 1/4.

With AGL report no. CS 50243 stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, insignificant clarity enhancement, type: traditional.

Estimate $20,000-30,000

Sold for $80,500

 

Lot 528 – Pair of Gold and Carved Coral Flower Earclips, Bulgari

18 kt., centering two flowers composed of carved coral petals with gold centers, encircled by textured gold leaves, signed Bulgari, approximately 20.2 dwt.

Estimate $3,000-4,000

Sold for $3,750

 

Lot 591 – Retro Silver, Aquamarine, Cabochon Ruby and Diamond Cuff Bangle Bracelet, Seaman Schepps

The hinged bombe cuff entering one cushion-cut aquamarine approximately 50.75 cts., accented by 24 vari-shaped aquamarines and 12 oval and round cabochon rubies, highlighted by 22 old-mine cut diamonds approximately 1.75 cts., signed Seaman Schepps, circa 1940, approximately 69.2 dwt. Inner circle 6 3/4 inches.

C Estate of Joan H. King
Estimate $4,000-6,000

Sold for $8,125

 

Lot 573 – Platinum, Low Karat White Gold, Cat’s Eye and Diamond Necklace

The stylized flower and scrolled ribbon motif centering one round cat’s eye approximately 23.25 cts., accented by 5 round cat’s eyes approximately 20.50 cts., set throughout with 137 old European-cut diamonds approximately 6.00 cts., completed by engraved low karat white gold tapered bar links, circa 1935, low karat white gold links added later, approximately 40 dwt. Length 16 1/2 inches.

Estimate $10,000-15,000

Sold for $25,000

 

Lot 346 – Two-Color Gold and Enamel Brooch, Buccellati

18 kt. yellow and white gold, the flying fairy centering a sculpted yellow gold figure of a woman with upswept hair, the wings fashioned of rope-twist white gold, accented by oval and vari-shaped panels applied with patterned blue enamel, centering patches of green enamel, signed Buccellati, Italy, approximately 15.2 dwt.

Estimate $3,000-4,000

 

Lot 525 – Gold and Cabochon Ruby Crab Cuff Bracelet, Mario Buccellati

18 kt., composed of six oversized textured gold crabs accented by 12 small round cabochon ruby eyes, flanked by textured gold tentacles, signed M. Buccellati, Italy, approximately 114.7 dwt. Length 7 3/4 inches.

Estimate $8,000-12,000

Sold for $25,000

 

Lot 512 – Two-Color Gold, Green and Red Enamel and Diamond Alligator Brooch

The open-mouthed alligator with textured gold head and one cabochon ruby eye, its mouth applied with red enamel and accented by a diamond-set white gold tongue, the body applied with green enamel, with gold scales and feet, terminating in a diamond-set tail, totaling 26 round diamonds approximately 1.00 ct., approximately 24.6 dwt.

Estimate $3,000-4,000

Sold for $4,375

 

Lot 376 – Four Strand Woven Gold and Citrine Choker Necklace, Hermes, France

18 kt., the openwork braid centering one emerald-cut citrine approximately 39.00 cts., flanked by 8 round citrines, completed by four strands of braided gold, signed Hermes, with maker’s mark and French assay marks, approximately 63.4 dwt. Length 14 1/8 inches.

Estimate $5,000-7,000

 

Lot 467 – Gold, Diamond and Ruby Bow Clip-Brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels, France

18 kt., the looped bow centering a pave-set diamond knot, alternately set with bands of diamonds and rubies, totaling 209 round diamonds approximately 8.75 cts., and 128 square-cut and fancy-shaped rubies approximately 9.75 cts., signed Van Cleef & Arpels, NY, no. 56124, Made in France, with French assay mark and maker’s mark, approximately 21.8 dwt.

Estimate $20,000-30,000

Sold for $23,750

 

Lot 571 – Pair of Two-Color Gold, Diamond and Emerald Pendant-Earrings, Buccellati

18 kt., topped by stylized pierced white gold snowflakes, joined by fancy-shaped diamond-set links, suspending 2 pear-shaped emeralds approximately 20.00 cts., within a delicate openwork scalloped frame, set throughout with 154 round diamonds approximately 2.30 cts., signed M. Buccellati, Italy, pendants detachable. With signed fitted box.

Estimate $60,000-80,000

 

Lot 308 – Antique Gold and Foiled-Back Pink Topaz and Emerald Pendant

The stylized cross centering a gold square plaque edged with delicate detail, centering one cushion-shaped foiled-back pink topaz, accented by 4 round foiled-back emeralds, quartered by a scrolled trefoil motif set with 4 round foiled-back pink topaz, the reverse square accented by a grid pattern, centering engraved Greek lettering, approximately 30.8 dwt.

Estimate $4,500-5,500

Sold for $5,625

 

Lot 334 – Two-Color Gold Necklace, Buccellati

18 kt., composed of three rows of finely textured fancy-shaped yellow gold links joined by finely textured white gold bar links, signed Buccellati, Italy, approximately 87 dwt. Length 16 inches. With signed box.

Estimate $10,000-15,000

Sold for $12,500

 

Lot 315 – Antique Gold, Green Enamel, Ruby and Diamond Snake Bangle Bracelet

The bracelet engraved with detailed stylized scales applied with apple green enamel, spaced by gold bands engraved with a leaf motif and five engraved panels centering a rose-cut diamond, terminating in a snake head topped with 8 oval and cushion-shaped rubies and 11 rose-cut diamonds, tipped by a diamond-set gold tail, minor enamel loss, approximately 53.7 dwt. Inner circle 6 1/4 inches.

Estimate $6,000-8,000

Sold for $11,250

 

Lot 111 – Pair of Platinum, Diamond and Cabochon Emerald Leaf Earclips, by Cartier

82 round & single-cut diamonds ap. 1.57 cts., unsigned, c. 1965, originally set with rubies. With original invoice & signed box.

Estimate $1,500-2,000

Sold for $7,500

 

Lot 108 – Edwardian Platinum, Diamond and Carved Emerald Pin, Marchak, Paris

Single & rose-cut diamonds, one carved emerald leaf ap. 12.8 x 11.2 mm., signed Marchak, Paris, with French assay marks, c. 1910.

Estimate $2,000-3,000

Sold for $2,750

 

Lot 21 – Gold, Hardstone and Diamond Elephant Chain Necklace, Van Cleef & Arpels

18 kt., lapis, coral & dyed green chalcedony, signed VCA, ’74, no. 840 42 1104, ap. 5.8 dwt. Length 14 3/4 inches.

Estimate $1,500-2,000

Sold for $2,813

 

Lot 20 – Gold and Green Enamel Rabbit Clip-Brooch, Boucheron

18 kt., one small ruby eye, signed Boucheron, with French export marks, ap. 7.3 dwt.

Estimate $800-1,200

Sold for $1,125

 

Lot 430 – Pair of Gold and Sapphire Bead Fringe Earrings

The gold hoops surmounted by rope-twist wire, joined by a circle link of similar motif attached to a bell-shaped engraved cap encircled by sapphire beads, supporting a multistrand herringbone chain fringe alternately tipped by 32 sapphire beads, approximately 20.2 dwt.

Estimate $2,000-3,000

 

Lot 422 – Belle Epoque Platinum, White Gold, Amethyst and Diamond Necklace, France

Centering 3 oval amethysts approximately 16.0 x 20.5 mm. and 10.4 x 13.4 mm., quartered by diamond-set scalloped segments, joined by diamond-set scrolled links, completed by delicate pierced fancy-shaped links, each embellished by a round cabochon amethyst, set throughout with old-mine and rose-cut diamonds, with French assay marks, circa 1890, approximately 18.5 dwt. Length 15 3/4 inches.

Estimate $12,000-18,000

 

Lot 553 – Platinum, Gold, Carved Pink Tourmaline and Diamond Flower Clip, Valentin Magro

18 kt., centering one large carved pink tourmaline flower approximately 47.0 x 42.0 mm., surmounted by a gold and diamond-set platinum floret, surrounded by diamond-set platinum leaves accented by polished gold stems, totaling 228 round diamonds approximately 8.50 cts., enhanced by a green beryl briolette, signed Valentin Magro, approximately 42.2 dwt.

Estimate $5,000-7,000

Sold for $8,750

 

Lot 4 – Gold and Ruby Donkey Pin, Cartier

18 kt., one round ruby eye, signed Cartier, no. 21642, ap. 9.5 dwt.

Estimate $800-1,200

Sold for $1,375

 

Lot 618 – Pair of Art Deco Platinum, Diamond, Carved Jade and Black Enamel Pendant-Earrings

Topped by 2 round jade approximately 6.7 mm., centering 2 small old-mine cut diamonds, joined by a line of 10 small old-mine cut diamonds and fancy-shaped diamond-set links, suspending 2 slightly tapered carved jade plaques approximately 35.0 x 14.2 x 2.8 mm., accented by scrolls of black enamel, circa 1920.

Estimate $6,000-8,000

Sold for $12,500

 

Lot 598 – Art Deco Platinum, Carved Jade, Seed Pearl and Diamond Brooch, Yard

Centering one lozenge-shaped carved jade depicting a floral motif, approximately 18.7 x 41.0 x .8 mm., tipped by two curved platinum bands set with 6 rose-cut diamonds, edged by seed pearls approximately 2.3 mm., quartered by 4 old European-cut diamonds, signed Yard, circa 1920.

Estimate $12,000-18,000

 

Lot 519 – Gold and Diamond ‘Dogwood’ Flower Necklace, Tiffany & Co.

18 kt., centering three large sculpted flowers with textured gold petals, alternating with matte gold flowers, centering 42 round diamonds approximately 2.15 cts., and gold ball-tipped pistils, completed by sculpted textured gold leaves with polished gold detail, signed Tiffany & Co., approximately 110 dwt. Length 18 1/4 inches. With signed fitted box.

Estimate $8,000-12,000

Sold for $15,000

 

Lot 163 – Antique Gold, Foiled-Back Garnet and Split Pearl Flower Brooch

C. 1820, ap. 14.5 dwt.

Estimate $1,500-2,000

Sold for $1,875

 

Lot 2 – Pair of Gold Earclips, Barry Kieselstein-Cord

18 kt., signed B. Kieselstein-Cord, 1987, ap. 16.6 dwt.

Estimate $800-1,200

Sold for $2,500

 

Lot 249 – Gold, Cabochon Colored Stone, Diamond and Dyed Green Chalcedony Bird Clip-Brooch, France

18 kt., round cabochon rubies, sapphires & emeralds, 8 round diamonds ap. .55 ct., with French assay mark, ap. 15 dwt.

Estimate $2,500-3,500

Sold for $5,625

 

Lot 327 – Pair of Gold Leaf Pendant-Earrings, Buccellati

18 kt., topped and suspending four finely textured gold leaves, with polished gold stems and veins, signed Buccellati, Italy, no. F2020, approximately 6 dwt. With Bergdorf Goodman box.

Estimate $2,000-3,000

Sold for $4,375

 

Lot 295 – Art Deco Gold, Platinum, Diamond and Enamel Case, Cartier

14 kt., the finely ribbed gold case outlined in blue enamel, quartered by diamond-set platinum garland plaques, surmounted by a jockey with blue and green enamel jacket and blue enamel cap riding a diamond-set platinum horse, signed Cartier, no. 4051, circa 1920, approximately 91 dwt. 2 7/8 x 3 7/16 x 3/8 inches.

Estimate $6,000-8,000

Sold for $8,750

 

All photos, estimates and descriptions courtesy of Doyle New York

 

 

 

 

 

 

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