Estate Jewelry: Of Birds, Leaves & Miscellany

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As the autumn leaves peak this weekend, resplendent in all their gloriously vibrant colors, it seems almost fitting that a few estate pieces I’ve selected for today were made in their image.  Bird brooches also appear to be popular motif in estate jewelry this week, so a few of those are included too. Strewn amongst the two themes are miscellaneous works by Boucheron, Sterlé, Schlumberger and Van Cleef & Arpels as well as a fabulous bombé ring and adorable Peking figure brooch from the 1950s.

 

Cushion-Cut & Pavé Diamond Bombé Cocktail Ring – Betteridge

Cushion-Cut & Pavé Diamond Bombé Cocktail Ring – Betteridge
Large diamond cocktail ring, centering on a cushion-cut diamond weighing 10.18 carats (GIA-certified: J-color and SI1-clarity), surrounded by a pavé-set diamond bombé, mounted in 18k yellow gold. Re-sizable.

 

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Gold & Diamond ‘Snowflake’ Necklace – Betteridge

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Gold & Diamond ‘Snowflake’ Necklace – Betteridge
Diamond “Snowflake” necklace, designed as an openwork bib necklace composed of a series of diamond-set ‘snowflake’ clusters, the clusters alternating with single circular-cut diamonds, each joined by knife-edge gold links, to a band of articulated circular-cut diamonds, the full necklace including 346 circular-cut diamonds weighing approximately 72.77 total carats, mounted in 18k yellow gold, numbered NY59139, signed Van Cleef & Arpels.

From autumn leaves to winter’s snow, Van Cleef & Arpels’ “Snowflake” necklace is the next season’s most appropriate accessory.  I look forward to winter just so I can see all the jewelers’ beautiful renditions of the snow flake, nature’s own precious crystal.

 

STERLE Gold & Pavé Diamond ‘Ribbon’ Twist Bangle – Betteridge

STERLE Gold & Pavé Diamond ‘Ribbon’ Twist Bangle – Betteridge
‘Ribbon’ twist bangle, set to the front with pavé diamond sections, mounted in 18k yellow gold, signed Sterle.

From Sotheby’s:

Pierre Sterlé (1905-1978) was introduced to the world of jewelry by his uncle and guardian who owned a shop on the rue de Castiglione in Paris. By the age of 29, his aptitude for jewelry design was such that he opened his own workshop on the rue Sainte Anne where, for the next several years, he designed and manufactured jewels for some of the leading houses in Paris including Boucheron, Chaumet and Ostertag. By 1945, he opened an elegant third-floor showroom on the avenue de l’Opera. Although Sterlé had many clients among the world’s most fashionable ladies, he remained a very personal jeweler who shunned showing his creations on street level, preferring to greet customers in the elite atmosphere of his salon.  Sterlé’s designs epitomized the dynamics of 1950s design and were wrought with great movement and energy. Whether executed in glittering diamonds or in “fil d’ange,” his trademark of gold rope fringes, his creations never failed to surprise and delight. In 1976, Sterlé closed his business and joined Chaumet where he lent his talent in designing modern pieces in the prevailing style.”

 French Gold Peking Figure Brooch, 1950s – Marie E. Bettely

French Gold Peking Figure Brooch, 1950s – Marie E. Betteley
The Chinese full-length figure with a textured robe and peaked hat in 18k gold, enhanced with a small turquoise, balancing two small bowls suspended from chains. Circa 1950s

 

BOUCHERON Rock Crystal, Onyx & Diamond Twin Ring – Betteridge

BOUCHERON Rock Crystal, Onyx & Diamond Twin Ring – Betteridge
Twin ring, one side set with carved, fluted rock crystal and the other with carved black onyx, accented by ten full-cut diamonds weighing approximately 0.54 total carats, mounted in 18k yellow gold, signed Boucheron.

 

TIFFANY & CO Carved Rock Crystal Leaf Earclips with Ruby Stem – Betteridge

TIFFANY & CO Carved Rock Crystal Leaf Earclips with Ruby Stem – Betteridge
Leaf earclips, composed of frosted rock crystal carved into a leaf motif, with square-cut ruby stem and single circular-cut diamond accent, mounted in 14k yellow gold, signed Tiffany & Co.

 

MAUBOUSSIN Diamond and Gem Set Stylized Mid-Century Bird Brooch – Macklowe Gallery

MAUBOUSSIN Diamond and Gem Set Stylized Mid-Century Bird Brooch – Macklowe Gallery
A Mid-century brooch in the shape of a bird sitting on a flowering branch by Mauboussin. The brooch has 62 round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.40 carats, 16 blue sapphires with an approximate total weight of .75 carats and 5 rubies with an approximate total weight of .23 carats. Circa 1950s

 

BUCCELLATI Gold Leaf Cuff Bracelet – Betteridge

BUCCELLATI Gold Leaf Cuff Bracelet – Betteridge
Openwork leaf motif cuff bracelet, in hand-engraved, 18k yellow gold, with hinge on one side, signed Federico Buccellati Italy.

Renowned for their incredible skill in working with gold, Buccellati’s delicate attention to detail of the leaves in this cuff breath life into an otherwise inanimate object.  Every elegant curve of each leaf seems to mimic the path of a softly falling leaf as autumn slowly withers them away from their trees.

 

TIFFANY Kunzite and Diamond Bird on the Rock Brooch – Samual Saidian

TIFFANY Kunzite and Diamond Bird on the Rock Brooch – Samual Saidian
A spectacular Tiffany Schlumberger” bird on the rock”. Containing a superb Kunzite weighing aprox 55 carats. With original Tiffany box. 1970s

Originally designed in 1960s, the infamous “Bird on a Rock” setting by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. continues to embody the designer’s whimsical style.  After he placed the bird atop Tiffany’s most famous diamond, The Tiffany Yellow Diamond, the setting became and instant hit as well as iconic for the brand.  Equally stylish are the series of “Bird on a Rock” brooches set with more affordable stones, such as citrine, amethyst, aquamarine or kunzite, like this one.

 

SEAMAN SCHEPPS Citrine & Pearl Cluster Earrings with Diamond – Betteridge

SEAMAN SCHEPPS Citrine & Pearl Cluster Earrings with Diamond – Betteridge
Citrine and pearl cluster earclips, with circular-cut citrine and diamond accents, two of the larger citrines hand-carved in the shape of leaves, with omega clips and posts, mounted in 18k yellow gold, signed Seaman Schepps. 27mm approximate diameter.

Nothing says fall better than citrine carved in the shape of autumn leaves.  These ear clips are utterly perfect for the season!

 

CARTIER Owl Clip – Craig Evan Small

CARTIER Owl Clip – Craig Evan Small
This handsome fellow is covered with 4 carats of diamonds, with cabachon emerald eyes and on the ends of his perch. He is on a double clip for a coat or scarf, and the CARTIER signature and numbers are on a bar under the clip and were impossible to photograph! Circa 1950s-60s

Last but not least, another one of Cartier’s infamous owls rounds out today’s estate jewelry picks!

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