Estate Jewelry: Of Birds, Leaves & Miscellany
As the autumn leaves peak this weekend, resplendent in all their gloriously vibrant colors, it seems almost fitting that a few estate pieces I’ve selected for today were made in their image. Bird brooches also appear to be popular motif in estate jewelry this week, so a few of those are included too. Strewn amongst the two themes are miscellaneous works by Boucheron, Sterlé, Schlumberger and Van Cleef & Arpels as well as a fabulous bombé ring and adorable Peking figure brooch from the 1950s.
Cushion-Cut & Pavé Diamond Bombé Cocktail Ring – Betteridge
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Gold & Diamond ‘Snowflake’ Necklace – Betteridge
From autumn leaves to winter’s snow, Van Cleef & Arpels’ “Snowflake” necklace is the next season’s most appropriate accessory. I look forward to winter just so I can see all the jewelers’ beautiful renditions of the snow flake, nature’s own precious crystal.
STERLE Gold & Pavé Diamond ‘Ribbon’ Twist Bangle – Betteridge
“Pierre Sterlé (1905-1978) was introduced to the world of jewelry by his uncle and guardian who owned a shop on the rue de Castiglione in Paris. By the age of 29, his aptitude for jewelry design was such that he opened his own workshop on the rue Sainte Anne where, for the next several years, he designed and manufactured jewels for some of the leading houses in Paris including Boucheron, Chaumet and Ostertag. By 1945, he opened an elegant third-floor showroom on the avenue de l’Opera. Although Sterlé had many clients among the world’s most fashionable ladies, he remained a very personal jeweler who shunned showing his creations on street level, preferring to greet customers in the elite atmosphere of his salon. Sterlé’s designs epitomized the dynamics of 1950s design and were wrought with great movement and energy. Whether executed in glittering diamonds or in “fil d’ange,” his trademark of gold rope fringes, his creations never failed to surprise and delight. In 1976, Sterlé closed his business and joined Chaumet where he lent his talent in designing modern pieces in the prevailing style.”
French Gold Peking Figure Brooch, 1950s – Marie E. Bettely
BOUCHERON Rock Crystal, Onyx & Diamond Twin Ring – Betteridge
TIFFANY & CO Carved Rock Crystal Leaf Earclips with Ruby Stem – Betteridge
MAUBOUSSIN Diamond and Gem Set Stylized Mid-Century Bird Brooch – Macklowe Gallery
BUCCELLATI Gold Leaf Cuff Bracelet – Betteridge
Renowned for their incredible skill in working with gold, Buccellati’s delicate attention to detail of the leaves in this cuff breath life into an otherwise inanimate object. Every elegant curve of each leaf seems to mimic the path of a softly falling leaf as autumn slowly withers them away from their trees.
TIFFANY Kunzite and Diamond Bird on the Rock Brooch – Samual Saidian
Originally designed in 1960s, the infamous “Bird on a Rock” setting by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. continues to embody the designer’s whimsical style. After he placed the bird atop Tiffany’s most famous diamond, The Tiffany Yellow Diamond, the setting became and instant hit as well as iconic for the brand. Equally stylish are the series of “Bird on a Rock” brooches set with more affordable stones, such as citrine, amethyst, aquamarine or kunzite, like this one.
SEAMAN SCHEPPS Citrine & Pearl Cluster Earrings with Diamond – Betteridge
Nothing says fall better than citrine carved in the shape of autumn leaves. These ear clips are utterly perfect for the season!
CARTIER Owl Clip – Craig Evan Small
Last but not least, another one of Cartier’s infamous owls rounds out today’s estate jewelry picks!
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