Over the past week I’ve seen some really sensational estate jewelry, plus a couple new pieces at Betteridge that are worth highlighting. Here are my favorites:
CARTIER An Art Deco Egyptian Revival Ring – FD Gallery
With Howard Carter’s discovery of the Tomb of Tutankhamen in 1922, a whole new world of inspiration sparked sweeping changes in the world of design. From fashion to furniture, the visual impact of the find could be seen everywhere during the Art Deco era. In 1923, Pierre Cartier predicted the discovery would have a lasting impression in jewelry design and, unlike other jewelers working in their own Egyptian flair, Cartier sought guidance from major Egyptian source books such as Description de l’Egypte and Owen Jones Grammar of Ornament to keep their designs as authentic as possible. Interestingly, Louis Cartier astutely collected authentic Egyptian antiquities, oftentimes from Parisian dealers, and incorporated them as centerpieces of their jewels in the Tutankhamen taste. The combination of the exotic Egyptian style and innovative culture of Art Deco resulted in some of Cartier’s most visually striking and truly original jewels from this period, including this exceptional ring whose carved cabochon ruby depicts a Sasarian king. The intensity of the ruby’s glow and alternating triangular-shaped emerald and sapphire surround, both of which are heightened with the sharply contrasting black enamel, make for a brilliant color show that continuously delights the eyes.
CARTIER Pair of Natural Pearl Diamond Brooches – Symbolic & Chase
These are simply elegant, a perfect pair of brooches to enhance any evening gown or wedding dress.
CARTIER An Art Deco Diamond Platinum Bracelet – FD Gallery
Created in the late Art Deco style, this beautiful bracelet exhibits a nice break from the static square and rectangular shaped bracelets from the same period. Cartier’s open ‘Lily of the Valley’ motif offers a fresh interpretation of the period’s geometric styling that errs on the side of elegance instead of rigidity.
RAYMOND YARD A Pair of Ruby and Diamond Clip Brooches – FD Gallery
One of the great American jewelers, Raymond Yard and his outstanding designs endure today as excellent examples of Art Deco jewelry. With the backing and support of John D. Rockefeller Jr., Yard opened his first store in 1922 at 522 Fifth Avenue after having spent twenty years at Marcus & Co., where he started at the age of thirteen opening doors and ended as the most sought after salesman on the floor. A laundry list of New York’s wealthiest families came to Yard for their luxurious jewelry fixes: Woolworth, Flagler, DuPont, Harriman and Vanderbilt. A notorious perfectionist, Yard meticulously worked on perfecting every detail of his design as well as selecting the perfect stones, even if it meant waiting weeks or months to find them. His special twist on the tried and true Art Deco style was mixing gems with different styles of cutting, most notably combining round brilliants with straight baguettes. Shields, trapezoids and cushions also sprinkled his elaborate jewels, just like the stone in these brooches. The medley of gems with varying gem cuts produces a stunning piece of jewelry radiating with vibrant color.
JEAN CHARLES Gold and Multi-Gem Bird Brooch – Macklowe Gallery
Not much information on Jean Charles exists, other than being a jeweler at Fouquet, but this bird is a testament to just how talented a jeweler he must have been. With a fabulously whimsical design ripe with bright color, this bird’s intricate gold work of the feathers highlights how special this piece is.
PAUL FLATO A Pair of Diamond ‘Starburst’ Ear Clips – FD Gallery
Famously referred to as the “Jeweler to the Stars,” Paul Flato’s jewelry shined just as bright as his onscreen beauty clients: Flato jewels adorned Merle Oberon in ”That Uncertain Feeling,” Rita Hayworth in ”Blood and Sand” and Greta Garbo in ”Two-Faced Woman.” Born in Shiner, Texas in 1900, Flato first found his way to the bright lights and big city of New York in the 1920’s. There, he opened his first shop at 1 East 57th Street, where he would soon become one first major American jewelers creating works as highly imaginative as European jewelers. Adolph Klealty, George Headly and Fulco Di Verdura were some of Flato’s designers during the workshop’s height in the 1930s. Finding inspiration from nature, these refined earclips are a witty interpretation of a glimmering star bursting with light.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS. An Important and Rare Diamond Feather Brooch. – Symbolic & Chase
The graceful curves and delicate settings of this diamond feather brooch from Van Cleef & Arpels is a great example of the Maison’s extraordinary skill. Drawing inspiration from nature, feathers provide a wonderful test for any jeweler with their countless minute parts, challenging the craftsmanship in the difficulty of closely reflecting them with metal and gemstones. I find the refined, understated design to be the perfect accent for any occasion.
Betteridge Collection Pear-Shaped Emerald & Diamond Pendant Earrings
These are the emerald stunners referenced in today’s post title, along with the new Goshwara necklace below with emeralds weighing a total of 586.07 carats.
Goshwara Emerald & Diamond Necklace
These earrings are also new at Betteridge and just look at the intense, rich color of the yellow diamonds! I thought they were worth sharing for their excellent color and massive size.
Betteridge Pear-Shaped Fancy Yellow & Colorless Diamond Drop Earrings