For this week’s estate jewelry finds, I’ve gathered a lovely assortment of jewelry spanning several decades from notable periods. A few excellent Art Deco pieces mixed with jewels from the ’70s, ’80s and today, here are my selections:
A Pair of Diamond and Platinum Pin Wheel Ear Clips, circa 1974, Van Cleef & Arpels – FD Gallery
An Amusing Art Deco Cabochon Ruby, Diamond & Black Onyx Orchestra Bracelet – Kentshire
A similar bracelet sold at Christie’s Geneva in February 1998: Designed as a flexible cabochon ruby, black onyx, circular and baguette-cut diamond band depicting the eight members of an orchestra and a conductor, circa 1930, 17.7 cm.
Like most jewelers, Raymond Templier was born into a prominent family of Parisian jewelers. Founded by his grandfather in 1849, Templier joined the family firm, Templier et Fils, in 1922 after studying at the Ecole Superior des Arts Decoratives in Paris. As an important figure during the Art Deco movement, Templier’s work drastically strayed from the Art Deco style of other major jewelry houses. Drawing inspiration for his geometric compositions from modern technology, Templier played with contrasts of matte and shiny surfaces and volumes and flat planes, using gemstones and metals to form his design rather than designing around valuable, precious stones. As much in style now as it was then, the ground-breaking jewelry of Raymond Templier serves as a rare example of a designer whose innovative style transcends time. This bracelet, simple yet subtly complex, is a prime example of Templier’s brilliance in early contemporary design.
A Pair of Art Deco Double Clips – Samuel Saidian
“The “Ludo” design, first produced in 1934, was named after Louis “Ludo” Arpels. Originally created in a pattern of rectangular links resembling a brick wall, the “Ludo” soon evolved into a pattern of small hexagonal links such as can be seen on the present bracelet. One of Van Cleef & Arpels’ most enduring designs, the “Ludo Hexagone” remained popular throughout the 1950s and was recently re-introduced into their collection in an updated version.” (source)
Van Cleef & Arpels 18k Gold & Diamond ‘Frivole’ Necklace – Betteridge
A Pair of Colored Diamond and Onyx Tiger Ear Clips, circa 1987, Cartier – FD Gallery
Art Deco Platinum, Peridot and Diamond Ring by Rene Boivin – Macklowe Gallery
Cartier Diamond, Ruby, Enamel, 18 karat Double Clips – Macklowe Gallery