Estate Jewelry

Estate Jewelry: Cartier, Templier & VCA

A Pair of Diamond and Platinum Pin Wheel Ear Clips, circa 1974, Van Cleef & Arpels - FD Gallery

For this week’s estate jewelry finds, I’ve gathered a lovely assortment of jewelry spanning several decades from notable periods.  A few excellent Art Deco pieces mixed with jewels from the ’70s, ’80s and today, here are my selections:

A Pair of Diamond and Platinum Pin Wheel Ear Clips, circa 1974, Van Cleef & Arpels – FD Gallery

A Pair of Diamond and Platinum Pin Wheel Ear Clips, circa 1974, Van Cleef & Arpels - FD Gallery

A Pair of Diamond and Platinum Pin Wheel Ear Clips, circa 1974, Van Cleef & Arpels – FD Gallery

 

An Amusing Art Deco Cabochon Ruby, Diamond & Black Onyx Orchestra Bracelet – Kentshire

A diamond and gemset reproduction charm bracelet in the Art Deco style depicting a nine member orchestra, in platinum. - Kentshire

A diamond and gem-set reproduction charm bracelet in the Art Deco style depicting a nine member orchestra, in platinum. – Kentshire

A similar bracelet sold at Christie’s Geneva in February 1998:  Designed as a flexible cabochon ruby, black onyx, circular and baguette-cut diamond band depicting the eight members of an orchestra and a conductor, circa 1930, 17.7 cm.

 

RAYMOND TEMPLIER. AN ART DECO DIAMOND HINGED BANGLE. - Symbolic & Chase

RAYMOND TEMPLIER. AN ART DECO DIAMOND HINGED BANGLE. – Symbolic & Chase
Of Modernist design, the fluted silver bangle, fanning out to a central raised geometric design pavé-set with circular-cut diamonds, signed Raymond Templier, circa 1935, French assay marks for silver and platinum.
Cf. Laurence Mouillefarine, Veronique Ristelhueber, Raymond Templier, Norma Editions, P 162 and 163 for bangles of similar design.

Like most jewelers, Raymond Templier was born into a prominent family of Parisian jewelers.  Founded by his grandfather in 1849, Templier joined the family firm, Templier et Fils, in 1922 after studying at the Ecole Superior des Arts Decoratives in Paris.  As an important figure during the Art Deco movement, Templier’s work drastically strayed from the Art Deco style of other major jewelry houses.  Drawing inspiration for his geometric compositions from modern technology, Templier played with contrasts of matte and shiny surfaces and volumes and flat planes, using gemstones and metals to form his design rather than designing around valuable, precious stones.  As much in style now as it was then, the ground-breaking jewelry of Raymond Templier serves as a rare example of a designer whose innovative style transcends time.  This bracelet, simple yet subtly complex, is a prime example of Templier’s brilliance in early contemporary design.

 

A Pair of Art Deco Double Clips – Samuel Saidian

CARTIER Art Deco Double Clips - Samuel Saidian A pair of superb diamond double clips by Cartier. Containing Old Mine diamonds, emerald cuts and baguettes totaling aprox 19.50 carats. Both signed Cartier London with Cartier Makers Marks, & French Hallmarks. Made in Paris workshop retailed for London branch. Set on Platinum.  Circa 1930.

Art Deco Double Clips – Samuel Saidian
A pair of superb diamond double clips. Containing Old Mine diamonds, emerald cuts and baguettes totaling aprox 19.50 carats. Circa 1930.

Van Cleef & Arpels Ludo Huxagon Diamond and Gold Ring - Macklowe Gallery A French Retro 18 karat gold “Ludo Hexagone” ring with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The buckle ring features 43 round cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.35 carats

Van Cleef & Arpels Ludo Huxagon Diamond and Gold Ring – Macklowe Gallery
A French Retro 18 karat gold “Ludo Hexagone” ring with diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The buckle ring features 43 round cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.35 carats

“The “Ludo” design, first produced in 1934, was named after Louis “Ludo” Arpels. Originally created in a pattern of rectangular links resembling a brick wall,  the “Ludo”  soon evolved into a pattern of small hexagonal links such as can be seen on the present bracelet. One of Van Cleef & Arpels’ most enduring designs, the “Ludo Hexagone” remained popular throughout the 1950s and was recently re-introduced into their collection in an updated version.” (source)

 

Van Cleef & Arpels 18k Gold & Diamond ‘Frivole’ Necklace – Betteridge

Van Cleef & Arpels 18k Gold & Diamond 'Frivole' Necklace - Betteridge "Frivole" nine-motif station necklace, composed of multi-sized gold flower motifs with round-cut diamond centers, stationed on a gold chain necklace, the diamonds weighing approximately 0.64 total carats, mounted in 18k yellow gold, numbered BL139382, signed VCA for Van Cleef & Arpels.

Van Cleef & Arpels 18k Gold & Diamond ‘Frivole’ Necklace – Betteridge
“Frivole” nine-motif station necklace, composed of multi-sized gold flower motifs with round-cut diamond centers, stationed on a gold chain necklace, the diamonds weighing approximately 0.64 total carats, mounted in 18k yellow gold, numbered BL139382, signed VCA for Van Cleef & Arpels.

 

A Pair of Colored Diamond and Onyx Tiger Ear Clips, circa 1987, Cartier – FD Gallery

A Pair of Colored Diamond and Onyx Tiger Ear Clips, circa 1987, Cartier - FD Gallery

A Pair of Colored Diamond and Onyx Tiger Ear Clips, circa 1987, Cartier – FD Gallery

 

Art Deco Platinum, Peridot and Diamond Ring by Rene Boivin – Macklowe Gallery

Art Deco Platinum, Peridot and Diamond Ring by Rene Boivin - Macklowe Gallery A French Art Deco platinum ring with peridot and diamonds by René Boivin. The ring centers on a cushion-cut peridot with an approximate weight of 3.25 carats, surrounded by 60 pave set round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.60 carats. Certificate of authenticity from Madame Françoise Cailles, expert for Boivin.

Art Deco Platinum, Peridot and Diamond Ring by Rene Boivin – Macklowe Gallery
A French Art Deco platinum ring with peridot and diamonds by René Boivin. The ring centers on a cushion-cut peridot with an approximate weight of 3.25 carats, surrounded by 60 pave set round-cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 3.60 carats. Certificate of authenticity from Madame Françoise Cailles, expert for Boivin.

 

Cartier Diamond, Ruby, Enamel, 18 karat Double Clips – Macklowe Gallery

Cartier Diamond, Ruby, Enamel, 18 karat Double Clips - Macklowe Gallery A pair of French Art Deco 18 karat gold double clips with diamonds, rubies and jadeite by Cartier. The double clips have 14 diamonds with an approximate total weight of .28 carats, 4 cabochon rubies with an approximate total weight of .8 carats, and carved jadeite.  Circa 1930.

Cartier Diamond, Ruby, Enamel, 18 karat Double Clips – Macklowe Gallery
A pair of French Art Deco 18 karat gold double clips with diamonds, rubies and jadeite by Cartier. The double clips have 14 diamonds with an approximate total weight of .28 carats, 4 cabochon rubies with an approximate total weight of .8 carats, and carved jadeite. Circa 1930.

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1 Comment

  • Reply
    acsilver antiques
    March 21, 2014 at 8:42 am

    Oh Cartier do some fabulous gemstone pieces. I love the gemstone floral arrangement on this vintage brooch, I thought it complimented your selection above very well.

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