Jewelry Obsession

Exotic & Extinct: Hemmerle’s Edgy Materials

Hemmerle Earrings, copper, white gold, wood, tourmalines, 0190_12

This morning I received my invitation to Hemmerle’s Spring Viewing of their latest creations, an exciting semiannual event the Munich jewelry house hosts in New York each year recently mentioned in Town & Country’s May issue.  After seeing a few teaser jewels of what is to come, I have no doubt the viewing will be brilliant.

Hemmerle invite

Hemmerle Spring Viewing Invitation

Earlier I featured two of Hemmerle’s newest pieces which featured dazzling gems set in mammoth and dinosaur bone, materials from extinct mammals.  Today, I have two more edgy jewels to share.  The first is a pair of earrings featuring tourmalines set in Palmira black wood, a rare wood from a type of South East Asian palm tree.

Hemmerle Earrings, copper, white gold, wood, tourmalines, 0190_12

Hemmerle Earrings, copper, white gold, wood, tourmalines – Photo courtesy of Hemmerle

 No stranger to exotic woods, Hemmerle first started using wood in the 1990s and now works with over 10 different types of wood, most of which are unusual tropical varieties such as Amyris and Pock. Matching the woods just right so as to further enhance a particular gem’s overall color and sparkle starts with the careful selection of the wood, paying particular attention to their natural color and form.  Woods exhibiting tonal color and interesting structures are favorites of Hemmele as they are more interesting to work with; their dense and lustrous qualities also make them particularly tactile.  Always one step ahead in jewelry design and innovation, Hemmerle’s use of wood creates a dramatic back drop for its hand-selected rare precious and semi-precious stones, beautifully capturing their sculptural aura and colorfulness.

The next jewel is another pair of mammoth earrings, perfectly complimenting the vivid red and orange hues of the zircons and sapphires set within.

Hemmerle Earrings, copper, white gold, mammoth, red and orange zircons, sapphires, 0765_12

Hemmerle Earrings, copper, white gold, mammoth, red and orange zircons, sapphires – Photo courtesy of Hemmerle

Unusual bones materials have long been used by Hemmerle, often working with mammoth bone and sometimes using a special part from the end of the mammoth tusks.  An even more unconventional bone material is petrified walrus teeth estimated to be between 35,000 to 45,000 years old, which were incorporated into a bangle in the past.  As for me, I find the use of dinosaur bone to be Hemmerle’s most fascinating bone to date.

After seeing all these incredible new pieces, I simply cannot wait for the rest of the collection in May!


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