Art Deco

Art Deco Series Day 4 – Picture Perfect Panel Bracelets

Art_Deco_Birds-in-Flight_Bracelet_ca1925

Wide diamond and gem-set panel bracelets soared in popularity during the Art Deco period, providing jewelers plenty of space to execute their artistic freedom and experiment with different geometric shapes and combinations.  The ubiquitous panel bracelet, typically comprised of diamonds set in platinum, showcased the countless ways a jeweler could arrange basic geometric shapes to form a new, unique design.  Oftentimes, these diamond bands are speckled with ruby, emerald, sapphire or onyx accents to enhance the bold design with drastic color contrasts.

The thinner bracelets of the early 1920s widened as the decade progressed, becoming links of shining white panels with criss-crossing and zigzagging lines; however, the most elaborate art deco bracelets are those whose panels depict a story, scene or nature, letting its gemstones paint the picture.  Whether abstract or realistic in form, the exquisite artistry and fine detail of these miniature jeweled panoramas exhibit the depth of creative talent of the jewelers behind them during this historic period in jewelry.

Just like the saying “a picture is worth 1,000 words”, I’ll leave the rest of this article to the following art deco bracelets’ picture panels.

 

Art Deco diamond and multi-gem "Wave" bracelet by Rubel Freres, circa 1925

AN ART DECO DIAMOND AND MULTI-GEM “WAVE” BRACELET, BY RUBEL FRERES
The wide articulated band designed as an old European and circular-cut diamond undulating upper panel, set with five pierced flowers each bezel-set with a pear-shaped diamond pistil and calibré-cut black onyx stems and detail, enhanced by buff-top emerald accents, framed by calibré-cut emeralds, rubies and sapphires depicting a floral scene, mounted in platinum, circa 1925, 7½ ins., with French assay marks
With maker’s mark for Rubel Frères
Photo courtesy of Christie’s

Art Deco diamond and multi-gem "Wave" bracelet by Rubel Freres, circa 1925

Art_Deco_Birds-in-Flight_Bracelet_ca1925

Art Deco Birds-in-Flight bracelet with flexible band set with caliber-cut rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and circular-cut diamonds with caliber-cut onyx accents, mounted in platinum, ca. 1925. Courtesy of Sotheby’s, Geneva.

This Art Deco platinum and enamel bracelet contains 626 diamonds, 73 emeralds, 48 sapphires, and 20 rubies. The bracelet was made by French jeweler, Geoffroy et Eisenmann, in Paris during the 1920's.  Image Number: 96-30149 Catalog Number: G10032 Mr. C. Thomas Clagett , 1993

This Art Deco platinum and enamel bracelet contains 626 diamonds, 73 emeralds, 48 sapphires, and 20 rubies. The bracelet was made by French jeweler, Geoffroy et Eisenmann, in Paris during the 1920’s.
Image Number: 96-30149
Catalog Number: G10032
Mr. C. Thomas Clagett , 1993

Bracelet Roses, Paris, 1924. Platine, diamants taille brillant, émeraudes et rubis taille suiffée, onyx Collection particulière

Bracelet Roses, Paris, 1924. Platinum, brilliant-cut diamonds, emeralds and rubies suiffée, onyx Private collection © Van Cleef & Arpels

"Le grand négoce, l'exposition des Arts Décoratifs" catalogue cover, 1925, Van Cleef & Arpels

“Le grand négoce, l’exposition des Arts Décoratifs” catalogue cover, 1925, Van Cleef & Arpels

A Multi-Gem and Platinum Bracelet

A Multi-Gem and Platinum Bracelet
Designed as a series of birds of paradise amongst a blossoming branch, with calibré-cut cabochon sapphires, pink sapphires, rubies, emeralds and onyxes, on a pavé-set diamond ground, mounted in platinum, length 7 ins
Photo courtesy of Dupuis

ART DECO CARVED HARDSTONE AND DIAMOND BRACELET, FRENCH, CIRCA 1925 - photo courtesy of Sotheby's

ART DECO CARVED HARDSTONE AND DIAMOND BRACELET, FRENCH, CIRCA 1925 – photo courtesy of Sotheby’s

The articulated band decorated with panels of carved hardstone flowers, including coral, carnelian, chalcedony and malachite, against a lapis lazuli ground, within a border of single-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum, French assay mark.

Catalogue Note

Although unsigned, the present bracelet is illustrated in Art Deco Jewellery: 1920-1939,by Melissa Gabardi, p. 69, top, where it is attributed to Boucheron. Two corsage pins made by Boucheron for the 1925 Exposition des Arts Décoratifs of carved lapis, coral, onyx and jade, appear on the same page. 

Potential bidders who intend to export this lot are advised that certain permits may be required for export. If you are interested in this lot, please contact the Jewelry Department before bidding.

Van Cleef & Arpels Egyptian Bracelet (1924)

Van Cleef & Arpels Egyptian Bracelet (1924)

Van Cleef & Arpels Egyptian bracelet (1924)

Van Cleef & Arpels Egyptian bracelet (1924)

AN ART DECO DIAMOND, EMERALD AND ONYX BRACELET

AN ART DECO DIAMOND, EMERALD AND ONYX BRACELET – photo courtesy of Christie’s

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ONYX, CORAL AND DIAMOND BRACELET, LACLOCHE FRÈRES, ca. 1925.
Platinum.
Rare, exquisite Art Deco bracelet depicting a Chinese garden scene: a pagoda, cherry trees in flower, a traditional boat with a boatman sailing down a river. A bridge with 2 court ladies, one holding a parasol. Decorated with cut onyx and coral and set throughout with numerous old European-cut diamonds, the river is set throughout with rose-cut diamonds. French platinum marks. Signed Lacloche Frères. W ca. 3.3 cm, L ca. 18.6 cm.

PLATINUM, DIAMOND AND COLORED STONE 'ROSE' BRACELET, TIFFANY & CO., 2004 - photo courtesy of Sotheby's

PLATINUM, DIAMOND AND COLORED STONE ‘ROSE’ BRACELET, TIFFANY & CO., 2004 – photo courtesy of Sotheby’s

The flexible strap decorated with a meandering rose stem, the petals set with buff-top rubies, the stem and leaves set with calibré-cut emeralds, and the vase composed of square-cut rubies, and decorated at intervals with tiny platinum spheres, the flower set against a ground of round diamonds, decorated at the top with an ‘evening sky’ composed of emerald-cut sapphires accented at intervals with tiny platinum spheres, set in the center with an oval rose-cut diamond ‘moon’ weighing 2.53 carats, completed at the ends with a line of round diamonds and a line of emerald-cut sapphires, the total round diamond weight 21.18 carats, length 7¼ inches, signed Tiffany & Co.

original drawing

Cataloge Note

Together with the original sketch from Tiffany & Co.

A single red rose in full bloom under the moonlight. It is hard to imagine a more romantic combination of elements than the ones found on the present bracelet. Even the vase from which the rose’s long sinewy stem emerges is shaped like a heart. More than any other flower, the rose has remained a universal source of fascination and inspiration. Writers and poets from all ages and cultures have praised its beauty, delicacy and fragrance.

A bracelet known as the “Moonlight Rose,” made by Tiffany & Co. in 1925, was sold by Sotheby’s in New York in April of 1998.  Although American firms did not participate in the Exposition des Art Decoratifs in Paris in that same year, it is clear that in terms of quality and design, this bracelet would have ranked alongside the best of French jewels from the Art Deco period. The origin of the design is unknown, but it there is a mysterious quality in the unusual subject matter of a rose blooming by the cool light of the moon rather than in the sun. The mosaic-like quality of the lapidary work and the arabesque curve of the rose stem would seem to be inspired by Islamic art. The excellent workmanship might have been that of William Scheer who is known to have manufactured jewelry for Tiffany & Co. at that time. While no original sketches for the bracelet are known to exist, sketches of pictorial bracelets with abstract floral motifs by William Scheer, Inc. are illustrated by Penny Proddow and Debra Healy, American Jewelry: Glamour and Tradition, p. 91.

The bracelet offered here, from the Tiffany Legacy Collection, is an exact mirror image of the original “Moonlight Rose” bracelet. The quality of the stones and workmanship are exceptional. Like the original, it is a tour-de-force of American jewelry making.

 

AN ART DECO SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND BRACELET

AN ART DECO SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND BRACELET
Designed as a series of brilliant-cut diamond baton links with scrolling terminals and rectangular-shaped sapphire three-stone accents, circa 1930, 19.2 cm long
Photo courtesy of Christie’s

AN ART DECO DIAMOND, SAPPHIRE, JADE AND ONYX BRACELET

AN ART DECO DIAMOND, SAPPHIRE, JADE AND ONYX BRACELET
Designed as an old European-cut diamond band, enhanced by tapered jade blossoms with black onyx stems, spaced by three pierced French-cut sapphire geometric panels, mounted in platinum, circa 1925, 7 1/8 ins., in a brown leather fitted case
Numbered 4365
Photo courtesy of Christie’s

Fine Art Deco Platinum and Diamond Figural Bracelet, Retailed by Thomas Kirkpatrick, & Co., New York

Fine Art Deco Platinum and Diamond Figural Bracelet, Retailed by Thomas Kirkpatrick, & Co., New York, the wide strap designed as a colonnade with two horned winged dragons breathing calibre-cut ruby fire, centering a marquise-cut diamond weighing approx. ?? cts., triangular-cut diamonds, and further set with baguette-, full-, and single-cut diamonds, lg. 7 1/8, wd. 7/8 in., no. 2127, American marks, unsigned, within original box for Thomas Kirkpatrick.
Photo courtesy of Skinner Inc.

A Rare Platinum & Diamond Art Deco Bracelet, Boucheron, Paris, Circa1925.  Photo c/o Stephen Russell

A Rare Platinum & Diamond Art Deco Bracelet, Boucheron, Paris, Circa1925. Photo c/o Stephen Russell

Lot-126-AN-ART-DECO-DIAMOND-AND-GEM-SET-BRACELET-BY-VAN-CLEEF-ARPELS1

AN ART DECO DIAMOND AND GEM-SET BRACELET, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS – Photo courtesy of Christie’s

ART DECO DIAMOND AND ONYX 'RUSSIAN WINTER' BRACELET, CIRCA 1925

ART DECO DIAMOND AND ONYX ‘RUSSIAN WINTER’ BRACELET, CIRCA 1925
The articulated band decorated with buff-top calibré-cut onyxes depicting three scenes from a Russian winter, including a country cottage, a shepherd and his dog at rest guarding a flock of sheep, and a Russian church, the scenes separated by trees with outstretched branches, within a ground of old European-cut and single-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum, length 7 1/8 inches.
Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s

A RARE ART DECO EGYPTIAN REVIVAL GEM-SET BRACELET, BY LACLOCHE FRERES - photo courtesy of Christie's

A RARE ART DECO EGYPTIAN REVIVAL GEM-SET BRACELET, BY LACLOCHE FRERES
The articulated single and old European-cut diamond band of Egyptian motif, designed as four buff-top calibré-cut sapphire, ruby, emerald and black onyx pierced panels depicting two falcons within oval-shaped surrounds, two sphinx, and two vultures with outstretched wings, segmented by buff-top calibré-cut ruby links, (two small onyx deficient), circa 1925, 18.7 cm., with French assay marks for platinum and gold, import marks and maker’s marks, in a black leather case
Signed LaCloche Frères
Photo courtesy of Christie’s

AN EXQUISITE ART DECO DIAMOND AND GEM-SET BRACELET, BY LACLOCHE

AN EXQUISITE ART DECO DIAMOND AND GEM-SET BRACELET, BY LACLOCHE
Designed as a diamond-set articulated band depicting a Chinese pagoda and boat surrounded by an Oriental garden of trees in bloom and a sun setting over water, set with calibré-cut emeralds, rubies and onyx, circa 1925, 18.2cm. long, with French assay marks for platinum and gold
Signed Lacloche Fres No. 67439
Photo courtesy of Christie’s

Colored stone and diamond bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels

Colored stone and diamond bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels

PLATINUM, DIAMOND, EMERALD AND ENAMEL BRACELET, CIRCA 1925 - photo courtesy of Sotheby's

PLATINUM, DIAMOND, EMERALD AND ENAMEL BRACELET, CIRCA 1925
The rectangular openwork links of floral design connected by circular links, set throughout with old European-cut and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 8.50 carats, accented by calibré-cut emeralds, applied with black enamel, length 7¼ inches.
Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s

AN ART DECO EGYPTIAN REVIVAL DIAMOND AND MULTI-GEM BRACELET

AN ART DECO EGYPTIAN REVIVAL DIAMOND AND MULTI-GEM BRACELET
Composed of six pierced pavé-set diamond plaques, three depicting a buff-top calibré-cut ruby, emerald and sapphire falcon, the other three depicting an ox, a seated figure, and a sphinx, enhanced by calibré-cut sapphire trim, with baguette and bullet-cut diamond accents, mounted in platinum, circa 1925, 7 5/8 ins., safety chain of later addition
Photo courtesy of Christie’s

AN EXCEPTIONAL ART DECO DIAMOND AND GEM BRACELET, BY CARTIER - photo courtesy of Christie's

AN EXCEPTIONAL ART DECO DIAMOND AND GEM BRACELET, BY CARTIER
Of Oriental inspiration, the pavé-set circular-cut diamond band mounted with stylised calibré onyx flowering branches, the cabochon ruby and emerald ‘blossom’ interspersed with single emerald cabochon ‘buds’, to the similarly set buckle clasp, circa 1925, 18.2cm long, one emerald cabochon deficient
Signed Cartier
Photo courtesy of Christie’s

DIAMOND BRACELET, FRENCH, CIRCA 1915

DIAMOND BRACELET, FRENCH, CIRCA 1915
The articulated open work band decorated with floral and foliate motifs, millegrain-set with triangular, circular-, step-cut and marquise- shaped diamonds, to an engraved gallery, mounted in platinum
Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s

An Art Deco Diamond and Emerald Bracelet, By Auger

An Art Deco Diamond and Emerald Bracelet, By Auger
Photo courtesy of Christie’s

Gem-set and Diamond Bracelet, circa 1930

Gem-set and Diamond Bracelet, circa 1930
Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s

AN ART DECO DIAMOND AND MULTI-GEM 'CHINOISERIE' BRACELET

AN ART DECO DIAMOND AND MULTI-GEM “CHINOISERIE” BRACELET
Designed as a flexible pavé-set diamond band depicting Oriental scenes set with buff-top rubies and calibré-cut emeralds to the onyx floral detail, 18.5 cm
Photo courtesy of Christie’s

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2 Comments

  • Reply
    Christine Webb
    May 6, 2013 at 3:25 pm

    the Art Deco bracelet made by Eisenmann is at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of Natural History – it was donated by Mr. Clagett in 1993

    http://geogallery.si.edu/index.php/en/1000032/clagett-bracelet

    This magnificant Art Deco platinum and enamel bracelet contains 626 diamonds, 73 emeralds, 48 sapphires, 20 rubies, and 4 citrines. The bracelet was made by French jeweler, Geoffroy et Eisenmann, for Vever in Paris between 1923-1925. It showcases a landscape with enamelled figures of a hunter on horseback and another on foot hunting a lion, styled after a Persian miniature. The diamonds are old Europen cut and single cut. The round rubies form flower heads; buff-top marquise-shaped leaves are made of emeralds and citrine; and a “river” of buff-top blue sapphires flow through the landscape. The hunters and the lion are enamelled in colors of orange, green, blue, black and brown. This important bracelet from Vever was featured in the catalogue for the International Exposition of Modern Industrial and Decorative Arts of 1925 in Paris (Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes de 1925) and won a grand prix. The term Art Deco was derived by shortening the words “Arts Decoratifs” from this exhibition.

  • Reply
    Mina
    August 20, 2013 at 2:35 pm

    i have a bracelet and i am not sure if it’s oscaer heyman or not, but its the same design and same looks as the bracelet you have on this page, if you can send me your email so i can send you a picture of the bracelet so you can tell me if it’s oscar heyman or not, Thank you for your help

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