Not all jewelry of the 1920s and 30s were dominated by bold, geometric shapes: the giardinetto and tutti-frutti styles also enjoyed enthusiastic fanfare in the form of brooches. Earlier this year, I wrote about Cartier’s tutti-frutti bracelets, but not the style’s brooches.
Diamond and Carved Colored Stone Pendant-Brooch – Doyle
Platinum, topped by a stylized branch and flower centering one old European-cut diamond approximately .60 ct., set throughout with 42 old European and single-cut diamonds approximately 2.25 cts., accented by 9 small round sapphires and rubies, embellished by 5 carved emerald, sapphire and ruby leaves, circa 1935, pendant loops added later, approximately 9.8 dwt.
The sister style to tutti-frutti that also shared the limelight during Art Deco is giardinetto, which means “little gardens” in Italian. Originating in Italy in the late 17th century, this term referred to a piece of jewelry, usually a ring or a brooch, with an intricate, openwork floral motif comprised of colorful gems arranged to resemble flowers, berries and/or leaves and often arranged in a vase or basket. Sapphire, ruby and emerald combinations were very common, with the stones often carved to resemble actual leaves or petals. The vibrant hues of this precious stone triumvirate perfectly suited the color contrasting aspect of art deco jewelry, made all the brighter with the surrounding pavé diamond accents.
GEM-SET AND DIAMOND ‘FLOWER BASKET’ BROOCH, TIFFANY & CO., CIRCA 1930 – Sotheby’s
Modelled as a basket of flowers, highlighted by leaves and buds set with carved rubies, emeralds and sapphires, decorated with black enamel, baguette and circular-cut diamonds together weighing approximately 1.50 carats, mounted in platinum, signed.
With its resurgence in popularity in the 1920s, these miniature gardens adorned ladies not only in brooch and ring forms but as earrings, pendants and, of course, bracelets. However, the brooch continued to be the most popular medium through which jewelers could create their most verdant and fruitful baskets, vases or flower pots bearing the brightest flora in sparkling gems. The multitude of precious hanging gardens evoked the magnificent splendor of the Roaring Twenties, with perfectly manicured gardens and exotic flower arrangements in rare antique vases enjoyed by the privileged few whose opulent mansions they adorned.
A diamond and multi gem-set ‘tutti frutti’ brooch, by Cartier, circa 1930. – Bonhams
The highly stylised shrub set throughout with brilliant and triangular-cut diamonds and carved emeralds, rubies and sapphires, the whole issuing from a brilliant, square and baguette-cut diamond urn, diamonds approximately 4.50 carats total, signed Cartier NY, height 5.6cm, Cartier case
Cartier is perhaps the most prolific in creating tutti-frutti and giardinetto art deco jewels, finding inspiration from the carved gems and colorful stones inherent of Indian jewelry. Nevertheless, other jewelers such as Mauboussin and Van Cleef & Arpels dabbled in the garden motif as well, creating stunning brooches, pendants and earrings in the groomed garden’s image.
PLATINUM, RUBY, SAPPHIRE, EMERALD AND DIAMOND PENDANT-WATCH, MAUBOUSSIN, CIRCA 1930 – Sotheby’s
The jardinière suspended from a stylized bar pin, set with a table-cut ruby, cabochon and carved rubies, cabochon and carved sapphires, carved and buff top calibré-cut emeralds, and baguette and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.00 carats, the reverse showing an oval dial with Arabic numerals, manual movement, signed Mauboussin, France, numbered 93633, one diamond missing.
AN ART DECO DIAMOND, MULTI-GEM AND ENAMEL SAUTOIR, BY MAUBOUSSIN – Christie’s
Suspending a pendant, designed as a circular, single and old European-cut diamond vase, centering upon a carved hexagonal cabochon emerald, extending carved ruby, sappire and emerald blossoms and leaves, enhanced by black enamel detail, from an onyx hoop, to the neckchain, designed as a series of circular-cut diamond links, each centering upon a carved ruby leaf, enhanced by calibré-cut sapphires and emeralds, alternating with single-cut diamond and calibré-cut emerald barrel-shaped links, enhanced by onyx and black enamel detail, mounted in platinum, 1927, with French assay mark and maker’s mark (indistinct)
By Mauboussin, no. 025755
With certificate of authenticity dated 9 November 2009 from Mauboussin, stating that the pendant and neckchain are recorded in the archives as nos. 90234 and 90269, dated 22 June and 1 July 1927, respectively
Pre-Lot Text (from Christie’s)
Mauboussin has a long and illustrious history, beginning in 1827 when Mr. Rocher and Baptiste Noury established a jewelry shop in Paris. In 1850, Noury assumed control of the business which, in 1896, was transferred to his nephew, Georges Mauboussin. During the first four decades of the new century, Mauboussin contributed exhibits to the major international expositions including Milan in 1923 and 1924; Strasbourg, 1924; New York, 1939; and Paris, 1925, 1931 and 1937. At the 1925 Exposition des Arts Dcoratifs in Paris, they were awarded the Grand Prix and, for his contributions to the world of joaillerie, Georges Mauboussin was given the prestigious “Legion d’Honneur.”
During the 1920s, the firm maintained branches in London, Buenos Aires, New York and Palm Beach. Mauboussin is most noted for their creations during this decade, at the height of the art deco period when they produced not only important designs in the rectilinear style characteristic of the decade but they also introduced truly remarkable jewelry that has come to be known as “Tutti Frutti” or “fruit salad.” These jewels featured naturalistically engraved gemstones in leaf, berry and blossom shapes that were based on the Islamic flower cult of the Mughal emperors. Although these gemstones were not as valuable as perfectly cut stones, their polychromatic effects were so striking that they became sought after by discriminating clients during the period.
This sautoir is an example of the best “Tutti Frutti” offerings from Mauboussin in which the engraved gemstones are incorporated into the design of both the pendant and neck chain. The “Vase de fleurs” pendant is made up of a hexagonal diamond-set flower pot centered by an emerald engraved with a flower. Out of the pot grows a diamond-set stem from which spring engraved ruby and sapphire flowers and emerald leaves. As a nod to the geometrical paradigm of the period, on either side of the floral bouquet is a stepped contour, reflective of the abstract patterning found on the architecture of ancient civilizations such as Babylonian ziggurats and stepped Mayan and Aztec temples. A small black onyx sphere on each step softens the pure linear design which could otherwise have been static.
A simple black onyx ring joins the pendant to the neck chain. The latter consists of alternating links of floral clusters, each with an engraved ruby blossom surrounded by emeralds, sapphires and diamonds, and separated by onyx rings to diamond, emerald and black onyx barrel shaped links. As a remarkable feature of this necklace, its reverse which is just as beautifully crafted as the obverse with all the engraved gemstones also engraved on the underside.
Mauboussin created “Tutti Frutti” necklaces at the end of the 1920s, featuring them in their Vogue advertisements in December 8, 1928, November 9 and December 7, 1929. The drawing for the pendant is illustrated in Mauboussin by Marguerite de Cerval (Paris: Editions du Regard, 1992), page 79; a sketch for the sautoir is included on page 8 of the firm’s promotional book, Mauboussin Joaillier
MAUBOUSSIN. A Tutti-Frutti Gem-Set Lapel Watch – Symbolic & Chase Designed as a carved ruby and circular-cut diamond surmount embellished with onyx and emerald accents, suspending an articulated line of graduated carved emeralds within an openwork diamond-set foliate motif accented with cabochon rubies, to a carved emerald depicting a bird within a black enamel and diamond surround, turning to reveal the rectangular-shaped watch case with an oval-shaped nickel-finished jewelled lever movement, silvered matte dial and Arabic numerals, circa 1925, indistinctly numbered 91836. Together with a certificate of authenticity from Mauboussin.
PLATINUM, COLORED STONE, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL BROOCH-WATCH, OSTERTAG, FRANCE, CIRCA 1925 – Sotheby’s The oval-shaped brooch designed as a jardinière, set with old European-cut, square-cut and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 5.55 carats, the flowers composed of carved rubies, sapphires and emeralds, further set with cabochon and rectangular-shaped emeralds, and pear-shaped rubies, the reverse with an oval dial with Arabic numerals, manual movement, signed Ostertag, French assay mark, the central jardinière-form element hinged to reveal timepiece.
A Jewelled Giardinetto Brooch – Dupuis Designed as flowering branches decorated with carved emerald leaves and ruby and sapphire blooms, to the pavé-set diamond stem and vase enhanced with onyx, mounted in 18k white gold
A Nephrite, Coral and Diamond Brooch, circa 1930 – Dupuis the giardinetto designed as a blooming bonsai tree of carved nephrite flowers with diamond collet centres, from the diamond stem to the carved coral jardiniere with diamond pedestal and trim, mounted in platinum
A RARE ART DECO ‘TUTTI FRUTTI’ CLIP BROOCH, BY CARTIER – Christie’s Designed as a shield-shaped openwork onyx plaque mounted with a series of carved sapphires and ruby leaves interspersed by cabochon emerald and diamond detail, the pavé-set diamond terminal mounted with a ribbed rectangular-shaped emerald to the black enamel surround, circa 1928, with French assay mark for platinum, 6.0cm long Signed Cartier, number indistinct
AN ART DECO DIAMOND AND MULTI-GEM BROOCH, BY LACLOCHE – Christie’s Of hexagonal outline, the openwork geometric plaque designed as a circular and baguette-cut diamond vase, set with a shield-shaped yellow diamond flanked by two triangular-shaped buff-top emeralds, extending a bouquet of carved ruby, citrine, sapphire, amethyst and pink sapphire flower blossoms, enhanced by scrolling circular and baguette-cut diamond leaves, mounted in platinum, circa 1930, with French assay mark Signed Lacloche
AN ART DECO DIAMOND, CORAL, JADE AND RUBY BROOCH – Christie’s Designed as a carved jade basin, decorated with square-cut ruby and black enamel trim, extending a bouquet of carved coral blossoms, each topped with a collet-set diamond, the black enamel leaves set with old European and rose-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum and gold, circa 1925, in a black leather case
AN ART DECO DIAMOND, RUBY, SAPPHIRE AND EMERALD ‘TUTTI FRUTTI’ DRESS CLIP, BY CARTIER – Christie’s Designed as a square geometric plaque, centering upon a cluster of carved cabochon rubies, sapphires and emerald leaves, trimmed by a vari-cut diamond frame, mounted in platinum, circa 1930, with French assay marks and maker’s mark Signed Cartier, nos. 93496 and HYA143
AN ART DECO EMERALD, SAPPHIRE AND RUBY DOUBLE-CLIP BROOCH – Christie’s Of ‘giardinetto’ design, set with a series of carved sapphire and ruby leaves, with brilliant-cut diamond vines, the centre set with a ruby cabochon and emerald bead flowerhead, in an earlier carved Moghul emerald vase with diamond-set handles, mounted in platinum, circa 1930, 7.0 cm long, detaches to form two clips (2)
AN ART DECO MULTI-GEM LAPEL WATCH, BY BOUCHERON – Christie’s The diamond, onyx and black enamel stylized vase, with pearl, carved sapphire and emerald flowers, enclosing a watch with square dial, Roman numerals and blued-steel hands to the reverse, suspended from a graduated baguette-cut diamond line and twin gem-set cornucopia surmount, mechanical movement, circa 1925, 11.0 cm, with French assay mark for platinum Signed Boucheron Paris, no. 32693
AN ART DECO ‘TUTTI FRUTTI’ BROOCH, BY CARTIER – Christie’s Composed of a cluster of carved ruby and emerald leaves with cabochon ruby and sapphire berries and single and brilliant-cut diamond accents, to the cabochon sapphire and vari-cut diamond vase, 1929, French marks for platinum, 4.4cm long, with associated maker’s case Signed Cartier Paris and no.03308 Accompanied by Cartier Certificate of Authenticity no.0367 180497 stating this brooch is a genuine Cartier item, made by Cartier, Paris in 1929
AN EXQUISITE ART DECO MULTI-GEM ‘VASE DE FLEURS’ BROOCH, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS – Christie’s Designed as a stylized black enamel and diamond vase with carved sapphire, onyx bead, carved ruby and fluted emerald flowers, circa 1930, 5.5 cm Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, no. 26553
AN EXQUISITE ART DECO ONYX AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY CARTIER – Christie’s The pendant designed as a pavé-set diamond amphora decorated with onyx foliate motifs and panels containing floral sprays to the twin leaf surmount and backchain, 1914, originally made as a corsage brooch, pendant and surmount 9.8 cm long, with French assay mark for platinum, in pink leather fitted case from the 1920s Signed Cartier Paris, with maker’s mark H P for Henri Picq Accompanied by certificate of authenticity no. GE2009-115 dated 8 September 2009 from Cartier stating that the pendant with necklet is a genuine Cartier item, Cartier Paris, 1914
Art Deco Diamond and Carved Colored Stone Tutti Frutti Brooch – Doyle The pierced platinum bombe half circle centering a band of 6 baguette diamonds, set throughout with 90 round and single-cut diamonds, total approximately 3.15 cts., terminating in 2 carved sapphire leaves approximately 12.8 x 11.8 mm. and 13.0 x 11.8 mm., flanked by 4 carved rubies and 6 cabochon emeralds, circa 1925, approximately 10 dwt.
Art Deco Diamond and Carved Ruby and Emerald Tutti Frutti Brooch – Doyle Platinum, the fancy-shaped pierced brooch decorated by a garland motif, topped by 7 carved rubies and 2 carved emeralds, set throughout with 19 baguette, 9 marquise-shaped and 121 old European and single-cut diamonds approximately 3.25 cts., with maker’s mark, circa 1925, approximately 8.2 dwt.
ART DECO DIAMOND AND COLORED STONE BROOCH, FRENCH, CIRCA 1920 – Sotheby’s The lobed oval plaque decorated with a flowering tree, the branches of calibré-cut onyxes bearing cabochon and calibré-cut demantoid garnets and cabochon amethysts representing blossoms, the pot of carved coral, within a ground of rose-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum, 1 small diamond missing, maker’s mark, French assay marks.
Art Deco Floral Giardinetti Brooch – Fourtane One of the finest examples of skilled art deco era hand craftsmanship to grace our presence… The labor that it took to create this highly detailed masterpiece is immense. Each colored gemstone is custom cut to fit in its perfect place to create the flowers and leaves set against a backdrop of diamond lattice. Black enamel vines add one more layer of detail and extra hints of distinction. Look closer and notice that each edge is finished with mille grain edges. Due to the unique cutting style of the stones, the flowers appear to be growing out of the brooch. It’s a truly gorgeous piece.
Art Deco Tutti Fruitti Brooch – Steven Fox This divine “tutti fruitti” circular brooch/pendant has an inner diamond vase bursting with a richly hued gemstone bouquet of flowers. Cabochon cut rubies, sapphires, and carved leafy emeralds sit among 5.50 carats of sparkling round cut diamonds. Set in 18K yellow gold and platinum and ringed by a black enamel border, this opulent array of precious stones is a classic and impressive example of Art Deco jewelry at its most creative. Includes detachable bail which transforms the piece from a brooch to a pendant.
ATTRACTIVE EMERALD AND DIAMOND BROOCH, CIRCA 1930 – Sotheby’s Designed a snow-covered pine tree made of carved and calibré-cut emeralds and circular- and single-cut diamonds.
Diamond and Carved Gemstone ‘Tutti-Frutti’ Earrings – Lang Antiques Add some color to your wardrobe (and life!) with these fun and fanciful, two inch-long, drop earrings in the splendid ‘tutti-frutti’ style. A pair of sparkling diamond vases blossom with bright-red rubies, royal blue sapphires and glowing green emeralds all hand-carved to emulate puffed leaves.
DIAMOND AND EMERALD WATCH-BROOCH, PAUL FLATO, CIRCA 1930 – Sotheby’s
DIAMOND BROOCH, LACLOCHE, PARIS, CIRCA 1920 – Sotheby’s Designed as a flower-filled basket within a double-hoop frame, set throughout with numerous old European-cut and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 9.30 carats, mounted in platinum, signed Lacloche, made in France, numbered 7032.
DIAMOND, RUBY AND NEPHRITE TOPIARY BROOCH, CARTIER, CIRCA 1930 – Sotheby’s Designed as a tree with a bird perched on top, pavé-set with old European-cut and single-cut diamonds and studded with round cabochon rubies, the base decorated with four cylindrical segments of nephrite, all edged in black enamel, mounted in platinum, signed Cartier, numbered 3213.
GEM-SET AND DIAMOND ‘BASKET’ BROOCH, CIRCA 1925 – Sotheby’s Designed as a basket of flowers, embellished by variously-shaped carved rubies, sapphires and emeralds, decorated by circular-cut diamonds and onyx beads, the vase composed of a carved colourless hardstone, the diamonds together weighing approximately 1.50 carats, mounted in platinum.
GEM-SET AND DIAMOND CLIP, CARTIER, CIRCA 1930 – Sotheby’s Of giardinetto design set with carved lapis lazuli, turquoise, tourmaline and cabochon rubies, highlighted with cream enamel, circular and single-cut diamonds, signed Cartier and numbered.
MAUBOUSSIN TUTTI FRUTTI DIAMOND AND GEMSTONE DANGLING EARRINGS – Ken Klenner
ART DECO COLORED STONE AND DIAMOND BROOCH, FR ENCH, CIRCA 1925 – Sotheby’s
Cartier Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Brooch
CARVED SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND RUBY BROOCH, CARTIER, LONDON, CIRCA 1925 – Sotheby’s The topiary motif set with a carved sapphire, the tree trunk and planter set with small round and single-cut diamonds and a rectangular-cut ruby, mounted in platinum and 18 karat gold, signed Cartier Ltd., London, numbered 8055.
COLORED STONE AND DIAMOND ‘JARDINIÈRE’ BROOCH, CIRCA 1925 – Sotheby’s Designed as a vase of flowers, the petals set with buff-top calibré-cut rubies, sapphires, amethysts and citrines, the leaves of calibré-cut emeralds, completed by small round and single-cut diamonds and a triangular-shaped diamond, altogether weighing approximately 3.00 carats, heightened in black enamel, mounted in platinum.
Fruit brooch. Cartier París, 1925. Platinum, gold, diamonds, emerald, ruby, onyx and enamel. Cartier collection © Cartier.
GEM-SET, ENAMEL AND DIAMOND BROOCH, MAUBOUSSIN, CIRCA 1925 – Sotheby’s Designed as a giardinetto, set with baguette, circular- and single-cut diamonds, highlighted by black enamel, cabochon emeralds, rubies and moonstones, mounted in platinum, signed Mauboussin and numbered, French assay marks, one small diamond deficient.
PLATINUM AND DIAMOND ‘FOUNTAIN’ CLIP-BROOCH, CARTIER, PARIS, CIRCA 1925 – Sotheby’s Designed as a fountain with cascades of water, set throughout with single-cut, baguette, marquise-shaped and half-moon-shaped diamonds weighing approximately 3.50 carats, signed Cartier, numbered 217572, French assay marks. With fitted box signed Wartski.
PLATINUM, DIAMOND AND COLORED STONE ‘TAJ MAHAL’ BROOCH, MAUBOUSSIN, PARIS, CIRCA 1925 – Sotheby’s Inspired by the Taj Mahal and its surrounds, set throughout with single-cut, baguette and half-moon-shaped diamonds weighing approximately 2.10 carats, one tree set with a carved emerald, accented by ruby and sapphire cabochons, signed Mauboussin, partial numbering, French assay mark. With box signed Trabert & Hoeffer, Mauboussin.
PLATINUM, DIAMOND, RUBY, EMERALD AND ONYX CLIP-BROOCH, FRENCH, CIRCA 1925 – Sotheby’s The stylized jardinière set with round and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.00 carats, accented by buff-top calibré-cut rubies and emeralds, and onyx segments, French assay marks.
PLATINUM, RUBY AND DIAMOND JARDINÈRE BROOCH, CARTIER, FRANCE, CIRCA 1925 – Sotheby’s Set with ruby beads, accented by bullet-shaped, baguette, French-cut and single-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 2.00 carats, signed Cartier, Made in France, numbered 7059C, workshop mark, French assay marks.
ROCK CRYSTAL, BLACK ONYX AND DIAMOND ‘ORANGER’ HAT PIN, CARTIER, 1926 – Sotheby’s The carved rock crystal depicting a stylized orange tree, set with black onyx and circular and single-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum, signed Cartier and numbered, French assay marks.
ART DECO CARVED EMERALD AND DIAMOND BROOCH, CIRCA 1925 – Sotheby’s Theﾠ rectangularﾠ plaqueﾠ depictingﾠ aﾠ templeﾠ onﾠ aﾠ hillﾠ andﾠ twoﾠ carvedﾠ emeraldﾠ treesﾠ underﾠ cloudsﾠ inﾠ aﾠ landscape,ﾠ setﾠ withﾠ baguette,ﾠ smallﾠ roundﾠ andﾠ single-cutﾠ diamondsﾠ andﾠ accentedﾠ withﾠ 2ﾠ smallﾠ cabochonﾠ emeralds,ﾠ mountedﾠ inﾠ platinum.ﾠ
GEM-SET, JADEITE AND DIAMOND DOUBLE-CLIPS, CARTIER, CIRCA 1935 – Sotheby’s Each clip centering on a button-shaped cabochon translucent green jadeite measuring approximately 15.00 by 5.00mm, to openwork pavé-set diamond foliage, accented by old European-, single-cut and baguette diamonds, together the diamonds weighing approximately 5.95 carats, interspersed with calibre-cut sapphires and rubies, mounted in platinum, both signed Cartier London. (2)
CARVED COLORED STONE AND DIAMOND CLIP, CIRCA 1935 – Sotheby’s The shield-shaped cluster of foliate design decorated with carved emerald, ruby and sapphire leaves, on articulated stems set with numerous round and baguette diamonds, the terminal accented further with a half-moon-shaped diamond and a sapphire bead, mounted in platinum.
COLORED STONE AND DIAMOND BROOCH, RAYMOND YARD, CIRCA 1930 – Sotheby’s Designed as a bowl of flowers decorated with carved ruby, emerald and sapphire leaves, 6 round diamonds and 1 marquise-shaped diamond of yellow tint weighing approximately .90 carat, completed by numerous marquise-shaped, round and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 3.00 carats, further decorated with small cabochon and calibré-cut emeralds and a single cabochon sapphire, the base accented with a band of black enamel, mounted in platinum, signed Yard.