Art Deco

Art Deco Series Day 6 – Swinging Sautoirs

AD Sautoirs

Fashion in the 1920s transformed just as dramatically as the jewelry that accessorized it, especially in evening wear.  Clothing, in general, became more functional and practical to better suit the lives of women during this time; their role in society had changed dramatically after the First World War as they filled the empty occupations left by men who were drafted to the war front, leaving them with a new sense of strength and maturity.

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Day dresses of the 1920s

Not ones to abandon their own femininity, ladies in the 1920s reserved the night to dress in sexy, dramatic attire, tossing their sporty short dresses and masculine threads in the hamper at the first sign of dusk.  Silky tunics daringly bared more skin than ever before, the removal of sleeves altogether revealed soft, delicate arms and severe low backs exposed the subtle, sensuous curves of a woman’s back.  All this bare skin beckoned for dazzling jewelry, which could easily swing along with the dresses as the ladies danced the new dances of the era like the Charleston, tango, and foxtrot.

Art_Deco_Evening_Wear

Art Deco evening wear

No piece of jewelry better suited this freedom of movement than the sautoir, which was the favorite necklace of the 1920s.  Often worn to the back rather than the front, the sautoir adorned perfectly the low backs of dresses in vogue during the 1920s.  Alternatively, the sautoir proved ideal as well for the low-waisted frocks that became emblematic of the Roaring Twenties.

Chaumet Art Deco Diamond & Black Enamel Sautoir - Betteridge

Chaumet Art Deco Diamond & Black Enamel Sautoir – Betteridge

Made of a wide variety of materials including diamonds, pearls, coral, sapphires, emeralds and rubies, this popular necklace assumed the form of long chains of rectangular diamond linking anchored with an elongated pendant of geometrical design.  Other popular designs included tassel pendants made of seed pearls or gemstone beads, long strings of precious stone beads or strings of pearls supporting large cabochon pendants, and multistrand necklaces of Indian inspiration decorated with diamond plaques and important clasps.  All these styles served to enhance the back décolletage of the racy back-baring dresses.

VERY ATTRACTIVE GEM-SET AND DIAMOND SAUTOIR:BROOCH, 1920S - Sotheby's

VERY ATTRACTIVE GEM-SET AND DIAMOND SAUTOIR:BROOCH, 1920S – Sotheby’s

NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND SAUTOIR, ONE SMALL CULTURED PEARL, FRENCH, 1930S - Sotheby's

NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND SAUTOIR, ONE SMALL CULTURED PEARL, FRENCH, 1930S – Sotheby’s

Art Deco sapphire and diamond sautoir by Lacloche Frères, circa 1925 - Sotheby's

Art Deco sapphire and diamond sautoir by Lacloche Frères, circa 1925 – Sotheby’s

AN ART DECO PEARL, EMERALD AND DIAMOND SAUTOIR, BY CARTIER - Christie's

AN ART DECO PEARL, EMERALD AND DIAMOND SAUTOIR, BY CARTIER – Christie’s

AN ART DECO DIAMOND AND EMERALD SAUTOIR - Christie's

AN ART DECO DIAMOND AND EMERALD SAUTOIR – Christie’s

A VERSATILE ART DECO RUBY AND DIAMOND PENDENT SAUTOIR - Christie's

A VERSATILE ART DECO RUBY AND DIAMOND PENDENT SAUTOIR – Christie’s

Lot 537 - Art Deco Platinum, Pearl, Diamond and Black Onyx Sautoir

Art Deco Platinum, Pearl, Diamond and Black Onyx Sautoir – Sotheby’s

AN EXCEPTIONALLY RARE GEM-SET EGYPTIAN REVIVAL PENDENT SAUTOIR, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS - Christie's

AN EXCEPTIONALLY RARE GEM-SET EGYPTIAN REVIVAL PENDENT SAUTOIR, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS – Christie’s

AN ART DECO DIAMOND, MULTI-GEM AND ENAMEL SAUTOIR, BY MAUBOUSSIN - Christie's

AN ART DECO DIAMOND, MULTI-GEM AND ENAMEL SAUTOIR, BY MAUBOUSSIN – Christie’s

An Art Deco Coral, Onyx and Diamond Sautoir - FD Gallery

An Art Deco Coral, Onyx and Diamond Sautoir – FD Gallery

An art deco diamond sautoir, circa 1930

An art deco diamond sautoir, circa 1930

AN ART DECO SEED PEARL, DIAMOND AND ONYX SAUTOIR - Christie's

AN ART DECO SEED PEARL, DIAMOND AND ONYX SAUTOIR – Christie’s

Rock crystal, diamond and onyx pendant-brooch, Cartier, circa 1925, and diamond sautoir - Sotheby's

Rock crystal, diamond and onyx pendant-brooch, Cartier, circa 1925, and diamond sautoir – Sotheby’s

Sautoir Tiffany & Co., 1925 Christie’s

A Diamond and Emerald Sautoir by Tiffany & Co., 1925 – Christie’s

 

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