Christie's

Christie’s Magnificent Jewels – New York – October 15th, 2013

Christie's Magnificent Jewels

The first of the magnificent jewels auction catalogs has finally arrived!  As I mentioned in my post from last week, the sale features extraordinary stones, breath-taking diamonds and marvelous jewels.  (Please see the post for a more in-depth summary of highlights from the sale.)

Important pieces by David Webb, an exceptional Cartier Art Deco brooch and an historic “mystery-set” Argentine flag brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels headline the 400-lot sale alongside the dazzling gemstones and diamonds.  Getting straight to the point, these are my favorite pieces from Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale in New York scheduled for October 15th, 2013.

 

Lot 392 – An Historic “Mystery-Set” Sapphire, Diamond and Coloured Diamond Argentine Flag Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, formerly the property of Eva Perón

Estimate:  $300,000 – $500,000

An Historic 'Mystery-Set' Sapphire, Diamond and Coloured Diamond Argentine Flag Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, formerly the property of Eva Perón

Lot 392 – An Historic ‘Mystery-Set’ Sapphire, Diamond and Coloured Diamond Argentine Flag Brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, formerly the property of Eva Perón

The undulating banner set with two sections of calibré-cut sapphires, bordering a pavé-set diamond center section, enhanced by a single and old European-cut yellow diamond and textured gold “Sun of May,” symbolizing a new age of freedom for Argentina, derived from their final struggle against Spain in 1810, unfurling from a baguette and circular-cut diamond stanchion, mounted in platinum and gold
Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, N.Y., no. 13669

Provenance

Formerly the property of Eva Perón

Previously sold at Christie’s New York, 6 April 1998, lot 171, for $992,500

Lot Notes

The Van Cleef & Arpels brooch, presented to Eva Perón before 1949, depicts the Argentinean flag with its horizontal tricolor; two blue bands flanking a white center, superimposed with a golden sunburst. The blue and white emblem, known as the “Sun of May,” symbolizes the end of Spanish rule when, on May 25, 1810 the national parliament elected Argentina’s first provisional governing junta.

The colors of blue, gold and white on the flag lend themselves naturally to the use of precious gemstones with sapphires forming the blue bands and diamonds, the white band and yellow sunburst. The sapphires are set in the serti invisible or invisible setting technique, developed by Alfred Van Cleef & Julien Arpels in 1935. In this technique, matched gemstones (usually sapphires or rubies; rarely emeralds because of their fragility) are precisely cut into special shapes with four additional facets to provide a contrast of light and shade while reflecting light in a manner similar to a mirror. These stones are slid into grooves in a special mounting wherein they fit snugly next to one another with no visible metal showing. In serti invisible designs, stones can be cut into a variety of shapes that, when slotted in the mounting, can create very elegant sculptural works of art with flexible, planar or three-dimensional surfaces. On this brooch, they are arranged in an undulating, cloth-like pattern to simulate a flag billowing in the wind. Smooth to the touch with no sharp edges on either gemstone or mounting, this brooch invites tactile as well as visual enjoyment.

During the 1940s, figural jewelry became popular as a reaction to the rectilinear styles prevalent in the 1920s and 30s. Static geometry gave way to jewelry with movement within the design as typified by this brooch. After the war, Van Cleef & Arpels designed many brooches in the guise of flags. The Argentinean flag brooch was part of that series, most likely, special-ordered as a gift for Eva Perón. It symbolized Argentina’s First Lady’s love for her country, especially for her dear descamisados, literally the vast masses of “shirtless” ones. It is one of many pieces that this prestigious firm made during that time period for important personages. Included among this illustrious list were Prince Rainer and Princess Grace of Monaco.

As a memento of a bygone glamorous era, the Argentinean flag brooch symbolizes both the woman for whom it was designed and the spirit of her country. Eva Perón was a patriot and this brooch would have been one of her favorites, one that she wore on numerous public and social engagements.

 

Lot 390 – A Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire and Diamond Necklace, by Cartier

Estimate:  $400,000 – $600,000

A Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire and Diamond Necklace, by Cartier

Lot 390 – A Sapphire, Yellow Sapphire and Diamond Necklace, by Cartier

Suspending a staggered fringe of cushion and rectangular-cut sapphires and yellow sapphires with circular-cut diamond accents, to the circular and marquise-cut diamond neckchain, mounted in gold and platinum, 1957, 15 ins., in a Cartier red leather case
Signed Cartier
With report CS 56331 dated 12 August 2013 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of the blue and yellow sapphires would be classified as Ceylon (Sri Lanka). No gemological evidence of heat

With Certificate of Authenticity from Cartier

 

Lot 389 – An Important Sapphire and Diamond Ring

Estimate:  $1,200,000 – $1,500,000

An Important Sapphire and Diamond Ring

Lot 389 – An Important Sapphire and Diamond Ring

Set with a cushion-cut sapphire, weighing approximately 15.88 carats, flanked on either side by a half moon diamond, mounted in 18k white gold
With report CS 82684 dated 14 March 2013 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of the sapphire would be classified as Kashmir. No gemological evidence of heat

With report 67061 dated 12 March 2013 from SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating that the analysed properties confirm the authenticity of the sapphire. Origin: Kashmir. No indications of heating

 

Lot 338 – A Set of Sapphire and Diamond Jewelry, by Graff

Estimate:  $350,000 – $500,000

A SET OF SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND JEWELRY, BY GRAFF

Lot 338 – A Set of Sapphire and Diamond Jewelry, by Graff

Comprising a necklace, suspending a graduated fringe of heart-shaped sapphires, each within a pear, marquise and circular-cut diamond surround, from an alternating line of heart-shaped sapphires and circular-cut diamonds, to the pear, marquise and circular-cut diamond backchain; and a pair of ear pendants en suite (surmounts may be worn as ear clips without the detachable pendants; detachable pendants with collapsible posts to be worn as ear clips), mounted in platinum and gold, necklace 15 ins., in a Graff navy leather envelope case
Each signed Graff, ear pendants no. 46845
With report CS 51079 dated 14 August 2012 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of the sapphires in the necklace would be classified as a combination of Ceylon (Sri Lanka) and Madagascar. Standard Enhancement: Heat

With report CS 51080 A and B dated 14 August 2012 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of the sapphires in the ear pendants would be classified as Ceylon (Sri Lanka). Standard Enhancement: Heat (2)

Lot 338 - A SET OF SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND JEWELRY, BY GRAFF

 

Lot 379 – A Diamond Ring, by David Webb

THE ESTATE OF THE HONORABLE NOREEN STONOR DREXEL, NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND

Estimate:  $450,000 – $650,000

A diamond ring, circa 1970, by David Webb, from the collection of The Honorable Noreen Stonor Drexel of Newport

Lot 379 – A Diamond Ring, by David Webb

Set with a circular-cut diamond, weighing approximately 12.55 carats, within an old European-cut diamond and sculpted 18k gold foliate surround, mounted in 18k gold, circa 1970, in a David Webb black suede pouch
Signed Webb for David Webb
With report 2155484124 dated 3 June 2013 from the Gemological Institute of America stating that the diamond is G color, VS1 clarity

Lot Notes

The center diamond featured in this ring was given around 1947 to Mrs. Drexel by her husband’s grandmother who, at the time, was living in Paris. The current setting was a collaboration between Mr. Drexel and David Webb in the early 1970s.

 

Lot 382 – A Diamond Necklace, by Van Cleef & Arpels

Estimate:  $200,000 – $300,000

A DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Lot 382 – A Diamond Necklace, by Van Cleef & Arpels

Designed as a graduated baguette and circular-cut diamond line, extending a marquise-cut diamond fringe, to the V-shaped staggered terminals at the front, mounted in platinum, 15½ ins., in a Van Cleef & Arpels gray leather envelope case
Signed V.C.A. for Van Cleef & Arpels, N.Y., no. 29361

 

Lot 377 – A Diamond Brooch, by David Webb

THE ESTATE OF THE HONORABLE NOREEN STONOR DREXEL, NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND

Estimate:  $25,000 – $35,000

Lot 377 - A DIAMOND BROOCH, BY DAVID WEBB

Lot 377 – A Diamond Brooch, by David Webb

Designed as a circular and old European-cut diamond openwork plaque, mounted in 18k gold and platinum, with pendant hook and hoop for suspension, circa 1965, in a David Webb black suede case
Signed Webb for David Webb

 

Lot 374 – A Diamond, Emerald and Ruby Bracelet, by David Webb

THE ESTATE OF THE HONORABLE NOREEN STONOR DREXEL, NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND

Estimate:  $12,000 – $18,000

A DIAMOND, EMERALD AND RUBY BRACELET, BY DAVID WEBB

Lot 374 – A Diamond, Emerald and Ruby Bracelet, by David Webb

Designed as a circular-cut emerald band, set with a series of circular-cut ruby and diamond flower blossoms, to the circular-cut diamond trim, mounted in 18k gold, circa 1965, 6 ins., in a David Webb black suede pouch
Signed Webb for David Webb 

 

Lot 371 – A PAIR OF RUBY AND DIAMOND EAR CLIPS, BY DAVID WEBB

THE ESTATE OF THE HONORABLE NOREEN STONOR DREXEL, NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND

Estimate:  $10,000 – $15,000

Lot 371 - A PAIR OF RUBY AND DIAMOND EAR CLIPS, BY DAVID WEBB

Lot 371 – A PAIR OF RUBY AND DIAMOND EAR CLIPS, BY DAVID WEBB

Each set with an oval cabochon ruby, within a two-row circular-cut diamond and sculpted 18k gold surround, mounted in 18k gold, with pendant hoops for suspension, ear clip attachments are detachable, circa 1965, in a David Webb black suede pouch
Signed Webb for David Webb

 

Lot 369 – A DIAMOND, EMERALD AND RUBY BROOCH, BY DAVID WEBB

THE ESTATE OF THE HONORABLE NOREEN STONOR DREXEL, NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND

Estimate:  $25,000 – $35,000

Lot 369 - A DIAMOND, EMERALD AND RUBY BROOCH, BY DAVID WEBB

Lot 369 – A DIAMOND, EMERALD AND RUBY BROOCH, BY DAVID WEBB

Set at the center with a detachable pear-shaped cabochon emerald within a circular and old European-cut diamond surround, to the carved cabochon ruby plaque with rectangular-cut emerald and circular-cut diamond detail, mounted in platinum and 18k gold, with pendant hook for suspension, central plaque is interchangeable with a cultured pearl, measuring approximately 13.25 mm, within a circular-cut emerald and diamond surround, mounted in gold and platinum, circa 1964, in a David Webb black suede case
Brooch signed Webb for David Webb

 

Lot 372 – A RUBY AND DIAMOND RING, BY DAVID WEBB

THE ESTATE OF THE HONORABLE NOREEN STONOR DREXEL, NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND

Estimate:  $12,000 – $18,000

Lot 372 - A RUBY AND DIAMOND RING, BY DAVID WEBB

Lot 372 – A RUBY AND DIAMOND RING, BY DAVID WEBB

Set with an oval cabochon ruby, within a circular-cut diamond and sculpted gold bombé surround, mounted in gold and platinum, circa 1964, in a David Webb black suede pouch
Signed Webb for David Webb

 

Lot 367 – A PAIR OF CULTURED PEARL AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB

THE ESTATE OF THE HONORABLE NOREEN STONOR DREXEL, NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND

Estimate:  $8,000 – $12,000

Lot 367 - A PAIR OF CULTURED PEARL AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB

Lot 367 – A PAIR OF CULTURED PEARL AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB

Each suspending a detachable drop-shaped cultured pearl, measuring approximately 12.55 x 18.00 mm, with a marquise-cut diamond cap, to the surmount set with a cultured pearl, measuring approximately 12.15 mm, within a circular-cut diamond and sculpted gold foliate surround, mounted in gold and platinum
Signed Webb for David Webb

 

 

Lot 366 – AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING, BY DAVID WEBB

THE ESTATE OF THE HONORABLE NOREEN STONOR DREXEL, NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND

Estimate:  $30,000 – $50,000

Lot 366 - AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING, BY DAVID WEBB

Lot 366 – AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING, BY DAVID WEBB

Set with a sugarloaf cabochon emerald, within a circular and old European-cut diamond surround, with sculpted 18k gold detail, mounted in 18k gold and platinum, circa 1965, in a David Webb black suede pouch
Signed Webb for David Webb
With report CS 56153 dated 5 August 2013 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of the emerald would be classified as Colombia. Clarity Enhancement: Minor to Moderate, Traditional

 

Lot 372 – AN EMERALD, DIAMOND AND GOLD BROOCH, BY DAVID WEBB

THE ESTATE OF THE HONORABLE NOREEN STONOR DREXEL, NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND

Estimate:  $25,000 – $35,000

Lot 372 - AN EMERALD, DIAMOND AND GOLD BROOCH, BY DAVID WEBB

Lot 372 – AN EMERALD, DIAMOND AND GOLD BROOCH, BY DAVID WEBB

Centering upon a detachable sugarloaf cabochon emerald, within a sculpted 18k gold and circular-cut diamond surround set with pear-shaped emeralds, mounted in 18k gold and platinum, circa 1965, in a David Webb black suede case, detachable emerald may be worn at the center of lot 355
Signed David Webb

 

Lot 354 – A CORAL AND GOLD SEA URCHIN BROOCH, BY TIFFANY & CO.

THE ESTATE OF THE HONORABLE NOREEN STONOR DREXEL, NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND

Estimate:  $12,000 – $18,000

Lot 354 - A CORAL AND GOLD SEA URCHIN BROOCH, BY TIFFANY & CO.

Lot 354 – A CORAL AND GOLD SEA URCHIN BROOCH, BY TIFFANY & CO.

Designed as a sea urchin, with sculpted 18k gold and carved coral spines, mounted in 18k gold, circa 1965
Signed Tiffany & Co., Italy

 

Lot 353 – A PAIR OF CORAL AND GOLD SEA URCHIN EAR CLIPS, BY TIFFANY & CO.

THE ESTATE OF THE HONORABLE NOREEN STONOR DREXEL, NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND

Estimate:  $10,000 – $15,000

Lot 353 - A PAIR OF CORAL AND GOLD SEA URCHIN EAR CLIPS, BY TIFFANY & CO.

Lot 353 – A PAIR OF CORAL AND GOLD SEA URCHIN EAR CLIPS, BY TIFFANY & CO.

Each designed as a cabochon coral sea urchin with sculpted 18k gold spines, mounted in 18k gold
Signed Tiffany & Co., Italy

 

Lot 345 – AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING

Estimate:  $150,000 – $200,000

Lot 345 - AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING

Lot 345 – AN EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING

Set with an octagonal-cut emerald, weighing approximately 12.42 carats, flanked on either side by a trillion-cut diamond, mounted in platinum
With report 68662 dated 10 April 2013 from SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating that the analysed properties confirm the authenticity of the emerald. Origin: Colombia. Indications of clarity modification. Moderate amount of oil in fissures

 

Lot 313 – A DIAMOND, RUBY AND ONYX RING

Estimate:  $20,000 – $30,000

Lot 313 - A DIAMOND, RUBY AND ONYX RING

Lot 313 – A DIAMOND, RUBY AND ONYX RING

Set with a bezel-set old mine-cut diamond, weighing approximately 4.11 carats, within a baguette-cut ruby and onyx concentric surround, to the collet-set diamond shoulders, mounted in platinum

 

Lot 304 – A SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Estimate:  $350,000 – $500,000

A Burmese Sapphire Ring of 13.18ct, circa 1955, by Van Cleef & Arpels

Lot 304 – A SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Set with a rectangular-cut sapphire, weighing approximately 13.18 carats, flanked on either side by a trillion-cut diamond, mounted in platinum, 1955
Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, N.Y., no. 23550
With report CS 56806 dated 30 August 2013 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of the sapphire would be classified as Burma (Myanmar). No gemological evidence of heat

Lot 300

Lot 303 – A COLORED DIAMOND RING

Estimate:  $180,000 – $250,000

Lot 303 - A COLORED DIAMOND RING

Lot 303 – A COLORED DIAMOND RING

Set with a cut-cornered modified rectangular-cut fancy deep yellow diamond, weighing approximately 11.88 carats, mounted in 18k gold
With report 2155241230 dated 14 February 2013 from the Gemological Institute of America stating that the diamond is fancy deep yellow, natural color, VS1 clarity

 

 

Lot 295 – AN IVORY AND WOOD BEAD NECKLACE, BY DANIEL BRUSH

Estimate:  $40,000 – $60,000

Lot 295 - AN IVORY AND WOOD BEAD NECKLACE, BY DANIEL BRUSH

Lot 295 – AN IVORY AND WOOD BEAD NECKLACE, BY DANIEL BRUSH

Designed as a graduated series of sculpted mastodon ivory barrel-shaped beads with sculpted gold detail and terminals, spaced by African blackwood beads with sculpted gold detail, to the mastodon ivory bead backchain of similar design, mounted in gold, circa 1983, 26 ins.
By Daniel Brush

 

Lot 284 – A PAIR OF FINE EMERALD AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS

Estimate:  $220,000 – $320,000

Lot 284 - A PAIR OF FINE EMERALD AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS

Lot 284 – A PAIR OF FINE EMERALD AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS

Each suspending a pear-shaped emerald, weighing approximately 19.83 and 18.91 carats, joined by a marquise-cut diamond, to the rectangular-cut emerald surmount, weighing approximately 1.02 and 0.99 carat, from an old European-cut diamond French wire, mounted in pink and white gold
With reports 13037148 and 13037147 dated 10 March 2013 from Gübelin Gem Lab stating that gemmological testing of the pear-shaped emeralds, weighing approximately 19.83 and 18.91 carats, revealed characteristics consistent with those of emeralds originating from Colombia. Indications of minor clarity enhancement

With reports CS 53753 and CS 53754 dated 28 February 2013 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of the pear-shaped emeralds, weighing approximately 19.83 and 18.91 carats, would be classified as Colombia. Clarity Enhancement: Faint

With report CS 53921 A and B dated 13 March 2013 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of the rectangular-cut emeralds, weighing approximately 1.02 and 0.99 carat, would be classified as Colombia. Clarity Enhancement: Insignificant to Minor

Lot 284

 

 

Lot 280 – AN ALEXANDRITE AND DIAMOND RING

Estimate:  $400,000 – $600,000

Lot 280 - AN ALEXANDRITE AND DIAMOND RING

Lot 280 – AN ALEXANDRITE AND DIAMOND RING

Set with a cushion-cut alexandrite, weighing approximately 18.23 carats, flanked on either side by a triangular-cut diamond, mounted in platinum
With report CS 55020 dated 24 May 2013 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of the alexandrite would be classified as Classic Ceylon (Sri Lanka). Standard Enhancement: None

Accompanied by a supplemental letter from the American Gemological Laboratories attesting to the rarity and prestige of this alexandrite

Lot 280

Lot 276 – A THREE-STRAND NATURAL PEARL, CULTURED PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE

Estimate:  $200,000 – $300,000

Lot 276 - A THREE-STRAND NATURAL PEARL, CULTURED PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE

Lot 276 – A THREE-STRAND NATURAL PEARL, CULTURED PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE

The first strand comprising sixty-seven natural pearls; the second strand comprising sixty-one natural pearls and one cultured pearl; and the third strand comprising fifty-nine natural pearls and one cultured pearl, all measuring from approximately 10.90 to 4.70 mm, joined by a circular and baguette-cut diamond clasp, mounted in platinum, 18¼ ins.
With report 69409 dated 21 August 2013 from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating that the analysed properties confirm the authenticity of these 187 saltwater natural pearls and the identity of these two beaded saltwater cultured pearls (Nos. B2 and C1 from the clasp)

With report 1152480853 dated 18 June 2013 from the Gemological Institute of America stating that 187 of the pearls are predominantly natural saltwater pearls and two of the pearls are bead cultured pearls

 

Lot 264 – A RARE ART DECO CHLOROMELANITE JADE AND WHITE GOLD BRACELET, BY JEAN FOUQUET

Estimate:  $80,000 – $100,000

Lot 264 - A RARE ART DECO CHLOROMELANITE JADE AND WHITE GOLD BRACELET, BY JEAN FOUQUET

Lot 264 – A RARE ART DECO CHLOROMELANITE JADE AND WHITE GOLD BRACELET, BY JEAN FOUQUET

Designed as a series of octagonal-shaped chloromelanite jade open plaques, joined by sculpted 18k white gold links, mounted in 18k white gold, circa 1925, 6½ ins., with French assay marks and maker’s mark (indistinct)
Signed Jean Fouquet

Lot 264

 

 

Lot 263 – AN IMPORTANT SINGLE-STRAND EMERALD BEAD NECKLACE

Estimate:  $200,000 – $300,000

Lot 263 - AN IMPORTANT SINGLE-STRAND EMERALD BEAD NECKLACE

Lot 263 – AN IMPORTANT SINGLE-STRAND EMERALD BEAD NECKLACE

Designed as a graduated strand of thirty-nine emerald beads, measuring from approximately 18.47 – 18.20 x 15.65 to 9.45 – 9.35 x 7.45 mm, alternating with ruby bead spacers, joined by a cabochon pink sapphire and single-cut diamond clasp, mounted in silver-topped gold, 22 ins.
With report CS 56252 dated 13 August 2013 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of the emeralds would be classified as Brazil. Clarity Enhancement: Minor, Oil-type. An excess of 50 tested at random

Lot 263

 

 

Lot 261 – AN ART DECO EMERALD, NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND BRACELET

Estimate:  $15,000 – $20,000

Lot 261 - AN ART DECO EMERALD, NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND BRACELET

Lot 261 – AN ART DECO EMERALD, NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND BRACELET

Designed as a graduated series of five emerald beads, spaced by single-cut diamond rondelles, to the natural pearl bracelet, measuring from approximately 5.77 x 5.63 to 4.46 x 3.96 mm, with two emerald bead terminals and rose-cut diamond clasp, mounted in platinum, circa 1930, 6 ins.
With report 2125065907 dated 7 May 2010 from the Gemological Institute of America stating that the pearls are natural saltwater pearls. No indications of treatment

 

Lot 238 – A PAIR OF NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS

Estimate:  $150,000 – $250,000

Lot 238 - A PAIR OF NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS

Lot 238 – A PAIR OF NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS

Each suspending a drop-shaped natural light brownish grey pearl, measuring approximately 10.13 – 10.34 x 13.66 and 9.90 – 10.03 x 14.61 mm, from a single-cut diamond rondelle, to the circular and baguette-cut diamond fan surmount, mounted in platinum
With report 64738 dated 3 September 2012 from SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating that the analysed properties confirm the authenticity of these saltwater natural pearls. No indications of artificial colour modification

 

Lot 215 – A DIAMOND BOUQUET BROOCH, BY BUCCELLATI

Estimate:  $30,000 – $50,000

Lot 215 - A DIAMOND BOUQUET BROOCH, BY BUCCELLATI

Lot 215 – A DIAMOND BOUQUET BROOCH, BY BUCCELLATI

Designed as a rose-cut diamond floral bouquet, mounted in 18k gold and platinum, in a Buccellati gray leather case
Signed Buccellati, Italy, no. D4159

 

Lot 214 – A SUITE OF DIAMOND, TURQUOISE, LAPIS LAZULI AND GOLD JEWELRY, BY MARIANNE OSTIER

Estimate:  $30,000 – $50,000

Lot 214 - A SUITE OF DIAMOND, TURQUOISE, LAPIS LAZULI AND GOLD JEWELRY, BY MARIANNE OSTIER

Lot 214 – A SUITE OF DIAMOND, TURQUOISE, LAPIS LAZULI AND GOLD JEWELRY, BY MARIANNE OSTIER

Comprising a necklace, designed as a V-shaped cluster of sculpted gold plaques, set with oval cabochon turquoise and lapis lazuli, interspersed with circular-cut diamonds; a brooch and a pair of ear clips en suite, mounted in gold and platinum, necklace 14¾ ins., brooch with pendant hoop for suspension
Necklace and ear clips with maker’s marks for Marianne Ostier (3)

 

Lot 213 – A CITRINE, DIAMOND AND GOLD RING, BY STERLÉ

Estimate:  $8,000 – $12,000

Lot 213 - A CITRINE, DIAMOND AND GOLD RING, BY STERLÉ

Lot 213 – A CITRINE, DIAMOND AND GOLD RING, BY STERLÉ

Set with a rectangular-cut citrine, within a single-cut diamond surround, to the baguette-cut citrine gallery and woven gold hoop, mounted in gold and platinum, circa 1955
Signed Sterlé, Paris, no. 7873

 

Lot 204 – A GOLD NECKLACE, BY VERDURA

Estimate:  $12,000 – $15,000

Lot 204 - A GOLD NECKLACE, BY VERDURA

Lot 204 – A GOLD NECKLACE, BY VERDURA

Designed as three interconnected rows of sculpted 18k gold hoops, mounted in 18k gold, 16 ins.
Signed Verdura

 

Lot 193 – A PAIR OF ART DECO DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS

Estimate:  $25,000 – $35,000

Lot 193 - A PAIR OF ART DECO DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS

Lot 193 – A PAIR OF ART DECO DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS

Each suspending four briolette-cut diamonds, from three baguette and collet-set diamond chains, mounted in platinum, circa 1925, with French assay marks and maker’s marks (indistinct)

 

Lot 188 – A DIAMOND, RUBELLITE TOURMALINE AND YELLOW SAPPHIRE BRACELET, BY DAVID WEBB

Estimate:  $25,000 – $35,000

Lot 188 - A DIAMOND, RUBELLITE TOURMALINE AND YELLOW SAPPHIRE BRACELET, BY DAVID WEBB

Lot 188 – A DIAMOND, RUBELLITE TOURMALINE AND YELLOW SAPPHIRE BRACELET, BY DAVID WEBB

Set with a rectangular-cut yellow sapphire, within a circular-cut diamond foliate surround, to the variously-shaped rubellite tourmaline cluster band with circular-cut diamond detail, mounted in gold and platinum, circa 1966, 6 ins., in a David Webb black leather case
By David Webb
With certificate of authenticity from David Webb

 

Lot 187 – A DIAMOND, RUBELLITE TOURMALINE AND YELLOW SAPPHIRE NECKLACE, BY DAVID WEBB

Estimate:  $60,000 – $80,000

Lot 187 - A DIAMOND, RUBELLITE TOURMALINE AND YELLOW SAPPHIRE NECKLACE, BY DAVID WEBB

Lot 187 – A DIAMOND, RUBELLITE TOURMALINE AND YELLOW SAPPHIRE NECKLACE, BY DAVID WEBB

Of foliate motif, designed as a graduted cluster of circular-cut diamond leaves, set with variously-shaped rubellite tourmalines and yellow sapphires, mounted in 18k gold and platinum, circa 1965, 13¼ ins.
Signed Webb for David Webb

 

Lot 157 – A YELLOW SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND RUBY RING, BY TAFFIN

Estimate:  $30,000 – $50,000

Lot 157 - A YELLOW SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND RUBY RING, BY TAFFIN

Lot 157 – A YELLOW SAPPHIRE, DIAMOND AND RUBY RING, BY TAFFIN

Set with a cushion-cut yellow sapphire, within a circular-cut diamond surround, to the circular-cut diamond gallery with cabochon ruby detail, mounted in gold
Signed Taffin, no. TF752
With report CS 56169 dated 6 August 2013 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of the yellow sapphire would be classified as Ceylon (Sri Lanka). Heat Enhancement: None

 

Lot 154 – A SAPPHIRE RING, BY HEMMERLE

Estimate:  $450,000 – $550,000

Lot 154 - A SAPPHIRE RING, BY HEMMERLE

Lot 154 – A SAPPHIRE RING, BY HEMMERLE

Set with a bezel-set rectangular-cut sapphire, weighing approximately 14.33 carats, to the iron and 18k white gold hoop, with maker’s mark
Signed Hemmerle
With report CS 54164 dated 27 March 2013 from the American Gemological Laboratories stating that it is the opinion of the Laboratory that the origin of the sapphire would be classified as Burma (Myanmar). No gemological evidence of heat

 

Lot 146 – A COLORED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND TWO-STONE RING

Estimate:  $350,000 – $550,000

Lot 146 - A COLORED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND TWO-STONE RING

Lot 146 – A COLORED DIAMOND AND DIAMOND TWO-STONE RING

Set with a cut-cornered modified rectangular-cut fancy vivid blue diamond, weighing approximately 1.01 carats, and a rectangular-cut diamond, weighing approximately 1.49 carats, flanked on either side by a tapered baguette-cut diamond, mounted in platinum
With report 1152235465 dated 4 March 2013 from the Gemological Institute of America stating that the diamond is fancy vivid blue, natural color, VS1 clarity

 

Lot 119 – A JADE, DIAMOND AND MULTI-GEM CHIMERA CUFF BRACELET, BY DAVID WEBB

Estimate:  $20,000 – $30,000

Lot 119 - A JADE, DIAMOND AND MULTI-GEM CHIMERA CUFF BRACELET, BY DAVID WEBB

Lot 119 – A JADE, DIAMOND AND MULTI-GEM CHIMERA CUFF BRACELET, BY DAVID WEBB

The hinged cuff designed as two carved jade opposing chimera heads with circular-cut diamond detail, set with cabochon rubies, emeralds and sapphires, joined by two carved jade beads, mounted in 18k gold and platinum, designed in 1972, purchased in 1978, 2 1/8 ins. diameter
By David Webb
With certificate of authenticity from David Webb

 

Lot 112 – A CORAL AND GOLD ‘ALHAMBRA’ NECKLACE, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Estimate:  $14,000 – $18,000

Lot 112 - A CORAL AND GOLD 'ALHAMBRA' NECKLACE, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Lot 112 – A CORAL AND GOLD ‘ALHAMBRA’ NECKLACE, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

The 18k gold chain set with a series of twenty pink coral and gold clover links, mounted in 18k gold, 32½ ins.
Signed V.C.A. for Van Cleef & Arpels, N.Y., no. 4K854-34

 

Lot 109 – A DIAMOND, ONYX AND GOLD NECKLACE, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Estimate:  $10,000 – $15,000

Lot 109 - A DIAMOND, ONYX AND GOLD NECKLACE, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Lot 109 – A DIAMOND, ONYX AND GOLD NECKLACE, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Designed as a series of interlocking onyx and circular-cut diamond open links, mounted in 18k gold, 16 ins., may also be worn as two bracelets of 8 ins., in a Van Cleef & Arpels gray leather envelope case
Signed V.C.A. for Van Cleef & Arpels, France, 76 (2)

 

Lot 108 – A DIAMOND, RUBY AND ENAMEL FROG BRACELET WATCH, BY DAVID WEBB

Estimate:  $20,o00 – $30,000

Lot 108 - A DIAMOND, RUBY AND ENAMEL FROG BRACELET WATCH, BY DAVID WEBB

Lot 108 – A DIAMOND, RUBY AND ENAMEL FROG BRACELET WATCH, BY DAVID WEBB

Designed as an articulated hinged bangle, the green enamel frog set with circular-cut diamond lips and cabochon ruby eyes, opening to reveal a watch with mechanical movement, 17 jewels, the rectangular cream dial with blued steel hands and Arabic numerals, case stamped 14k gold, to its gold spotted body forming the hoop, joined at the top and bottom with oval-cut rubies, circa 1966, 2¼ ins. diameter
Signed Webb for David Webb
With certificate of authenticity from David Webb

 

Lot 104 – A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND YELLOW SAPPHIRE EAR CLIPS, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Estimate:  $10,000 – $15,000

Lot 104 - A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND YELLOW SAPPHIRE EAR CLIPS, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Lot 104 – A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND YELLOW SAPPHIRE EAR CLIPS, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Each designed as a circular-cut diamond and yellow sapphire flower blossom, mounted in 18k gold, with French assay marks
Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, no. BL6519

 

Lot 100 – A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND GOLD EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB

Estimate:  $10,000 – $15,000

Lot 100 - A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND GOLD EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB

Lot 100 – A PAIR OF DIAMOND AND GOLD EAR PENDANTS, BY DAVID WEBB

Each suspending a detachable circular-cut diamond and sculpted 18k gold open pendant, to the tapered surmount of similar design, mounted in 18k gold and platinum
Signed David Webb (2)

 

Lot 95 – A CORAL, ONYX AND DIAMOND BRACELET

Estimate:  $8,000 – $12,000

Lot 95 - A CORAL, ONYX AND DIAMOND BRACELET

Lot 95 – A CORAL, ONYX AND DIAMOND BRACELET

Designed as a series of old European-cut diamond and onyx square-shaped links, alternating with calibré-cut cabochon coral and onyx spacers with old European-cut diamond detail, mounted in platinum, 6 7/8 ins.

 

Lot 93 – A CULTURED PEARL, DIAMOND, GOLD AND SILVER TORSADE, BY RENÉ BOIVIN

Estimate:  $12,000 – $15,000

Lot 93 - A CULTURED PEARL, DIAMOND, GOLD AND SILVER TORSADE, BY RENÉ BOIVIN

Lot 93 – A CULTURED PEARL, DIAMOND, GOLD AND SILVER TORSADE, BY RENÉ BOIVIN

Designed as multiple strands of cultured pearls, joined by a patinated silver and gold sculpted apple clasp with circular-cut diamond detail, mounted in silver and gold, 1970, 15 ins., with French assay marks and maker’s mark
Work of René Boivin, designed by Juliette Moutard
Accompanied by a letter from Françoise Cailles

 

Lot 68 – AN IMPORTANT ART DECO AQUAMARINE, TOURMALINE, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL BROOCH, BY CARTIER

Estimate:  $200,000 – $300,000

An Important Art Deco Aquamarine, Tourmaline, Diamond and Enamel Brooch, by Cartier

Lot 68 – AN IMPORTANT ART DECO AQUAMARINE, TOURMALINE, DIAMOND AND ENAMEL BROOCH, BY CARTIER

Of geometric motif, designed as an curved openwork rose-cut diamond and black enamel plaque, set with a rectangular-cut green tourmaline, accented by a rectangular-cut rubellite tourmaline, to the articulated triple staggered cascade, the center suspending a pear-shaped green tourmaline, to the rectangular-cut lighter green tourmaline and triangular-cut aquamarine link, spaced by a black enamel hoop, with a cushion-cut aquamarine terminal, accented by rose-cut diamonds and black enamel, flanked on either side by two similarly designed tassels, one terminating with an oval-cut aquamarine, the other with a smaller cushion-cut aquamarine, mounted in platinum and 18k gold, 1927, with French assay marks
Signed Cartier, France
With certificate of authenticity no. NYC2010-9 dated 23 April 2010 from Cartier Joailliers

 

Lot 51 – A PAIR OF SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS, BY CARTIER

Estimate:  $70,000 – $100,000

Lot 51 - A PAIR OF SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS, BY CARTIER

Lot 51 – A PAIR OF SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS, BY CARTIER

Each suspending a drop-shaped faceted sapphire, to the single-cut diamond scrolling surmount, mounted in platinum
Signed Cartier, no. 2317760
With report 13025135 1 and 2 dated 18 February 2013 from Gübelin Gem Lab stating that gemmological testing revealed characteristics consistent with those of sapphires originating from Sri Lanka (Ceylon). No indications of heating

 

Lot 32 – A DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY BOUCHERON

THE DIANA DOLLAR KNOWLES COLLECTION

Estimate:  $80,000 – $120,000

Lot 32 - A DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY BOUCHERON

Lot 32 – A DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY BOUCHERON

Designed as a series of circular-cut diamond drop-shaped interlocking links, mounted in 18k white gold, 16 ins., with French assay mark and maker’s mark
Signed Boucheron, no. P56085

 

 

Lot 30 – A PAIR OF SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND EAR CLIPS, BY VERDURA

THE DIANA DOLLAR KNOWLES COLLECTION

Estimate:  $12,000 – $15,000

Lot 30 - A PAIR OF SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND EAR CLIPS, BY VERDURA

Lot 30 – A PAIR OF SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND EAR CLIPS, BY VERDURA

Each designed as a half moon-shaped cluster of cushion-cut sapphires interspersed with circular-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum, in a Verdura navy leather case
Signed Verdura

 

Lot 28 – A PERIDOT AND DIAMOND RING, BY VERDURA

THE DIANA DOLLAR KNOWLES COLLECTION

Estimate:  $8,000 – $12,000

Lot 28 - A PERIDOT AND DIAMOND RING, BY VERDURA

Lot 28 – A PERIDOT AND DIAMOND RING, BY VERDURA

Set with an oval-cut peridot, to the circular-cut diamond sculpted triple prongs and trifurcated shoulders, mounted in gold and platinum
Signed Verdura

 

Lot 26 – A DIAMOND AND GOLD NECKLACE, BY VERDURA

THE DIANA DOLLAR KNOWLES COLLECTION

Estimate:  $15,000 – $20,000

Lot 26 - A DIAMOND AND GOLD NECKLACE, BY VERDURA

Lot 26 – A DIAMOND AND GOLD NECKLACE, BY VERDURA

Designed as a series of circular-cut diamond hoops, joined by sculpted 18k gold knotted links, mounted in 18k gold, 16 ins.
Signed Verdura, Germany

 

Please be sure to check back after the sale as I update each lot with its realized sale price.

All photos, estimates and descriptions courtesy of Christie’s

 

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2 Comments

  • Reply
    Libby Dale
    September 16, 2013 at 2:27 pm

    Thank you, Natalie! You chose some of my favorites! 🙂
    xx
    Libby

  • Reply
    Janet Deleuse
    September 17, 2013 at 12:57 am

    Thank you for posting all these–just incredible!!!! So inspiring, each one is art …I’ll have to review them over and over.

    Janet Deleuse

    http://www.deleuse.com

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