Sotheby's

Sotheby’s Important Jewels – New York – February 6th, 2014

Sotheby's

After a blockbuster year at Sotheby’s, the bar has been set quite high for 2014.  Though we’ll have to wait for the first Magnificent Jewels sales to see if the jewelry bubble will continue to expand, with soaring prices to match, Sotheby’s eases into the new year with its first jewelry auction in New York, Important Jewels, on February 6th, 2014.

With a total of 382 lots, the sale includes signed jewels that exemplify the evolution of jewelry design throughout the 20th century, from linear and geometric motifs redolent of Art Deco to the bold, voluminous retro style popular of the 1940s and 50s. Among the highlights are a number of heart-shaped jewelry, just in time for Valentine’s Day, a stunning David Webb tiger bracelet in diamond pavé, and a colorful, iconic Bulgari “Serpenti” watch-bracelet.

However, in comparison to last year’s September Important Jewels, this sale seems to be lacking in true jewelry substance.  Hopefully, the best is yet to come this year with this auction serving to test the waters after the holidays.

As usual, here are my favorite picks from the sale.

 

 

Lot 369 – 18 Karat Gold, Enamel and Yellow Sapphire ‘Serpenti’ Wristwatch, Bulgari

Estimate:  100,000 – 150,000 USD

Lot 369 - 18 Karat Gold, Enamel and Yellow Sapphire 'Serpenti' Wristwatch, Bulgari

Lot 369 – 18 Karat Gold, Enamel and Yellow Sapphire ‘Serpenti’ Wristwatch, Bulgari

Designed as a snake with a bracelet of serpenti design, with pear-shaped yellow sapphire eyes, the scales applied with red, blue, black, green and white enamel, gross weight approximately 138 dwts, expandable, dial and caseback signed Bulgari, dial also signed Jaeger Le Coultre.

Catalogue Note

For a sketch of similar enamel snake designs from the Bulgari Heritage Collection, circa 1967, see Bulgari: Serpenti Collection by Marion Fasel.

 

Lot 347 – 18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Diamond and Emerald Bracelet, David Webb

Estimate:  80,000 – 120,000 USD

Lot 347 - 18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Diamond and Emerald Bracelet, David Webb

Lot 347 – 18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Diamond and Emerald Bracelet, David Webb

Designed as a tiger set with round diamonds weighing approximately 29.25 carats, accented by cabochon, round and pear-shaped emeralds weighing approximately 4.25 carats, internal circumference 6¼ inches, signed David Webb; circa 1965.

Catalogue Note

Accompanied by a Certificate of Authenticity from David Webb. For a necklace of similar design owned by Elizabeth Taylor see David Webb: The Quintessential American Jeweler by Ruth Peltason, page 164.

 

Lot 179 – Platinum, Mystery-Set Ruby and Diamond Brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels

Estimate:  75,000 – 100,000 USD

Lot 179 - Platinum, Mystery-Set Ruby and Diamond Brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels

Lot 179 – Platinum, Mystery-Set Ruby and Diamond Brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels

Designed as a butterfly with mystery-set ruby wings, centering a marquise-shaped diamond weighing approximately .70 carat, the wings framed by round diamonds weighing approximately 2.00 carats, signed V.C.A., numbered N.Y. 54584.

 

Lot 178 – Pair of Platinum, Ruby and Diamond Earclips, Graff

Estimate:  70,000 – 90,000 USD

Lot 178 - Pair of Platinum, Ruby and Diamond Earclips, Graff

Lot 178 – Pair of Platinum, Ruby and Diamond Earclips, Graff

Centering two heart-shaped rubies weighing 3.09 and 3.03 carats, framed by round diamonds weighing approximately 4.00 carats, signed Graff, numbered 6571.

Accompanied by two GRS reports:

No. GRS2004-040573 stating that the 3.09 carat ruby is of Burmese origin, with indications of heating, of the pigeon’s blood variety.

No. GRS2004-051175 stating that the  3.03 carat ruby is of Burmese origin, with indications of heating.

 

Lot 89 – Pair of 18 Karat Gold, Emerald and Diamond Pendant-Earclips, Van Cleef & Arpels

Estimate:  60,000 – 80,000 USD

Lot 89 - Pair of 18 Karat Gold, Emerald and Diamond Pendant-Earclips, Van Cleef & Arpels

Lot 89 – Pair of 18 Karat Gold, Emerald and Diamond Pendant-Earclips, Van Cleef & Arpels

The floral surmounts suspending fringes set with 20 fluted emerald beads, accented by round diamonds weighing approximately 5.00 carats, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, indistinctly numbered; pendants detachable.

 

Lot 370 – 18 Karat Gold, Ivory, Colored Stone and Diamond Elephant Bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels

Estimate:  60,000 – 80,000 USD

Lot 370 - 18 Karat Gold, Ivory, Colored Stone and Diamond Elephant Bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels

Lot 370 – 18 Karat Gold, Ivory, Colored Stone and Diamond Elephant Bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels

The carved ivory elephant, the crown set with a cabochon ruby measuring approximately 8.2 by 6.2 mm, framed by round diamonds weighing approximately 1.00 carat, the tail set with a pear-shaped turquoise cabochon, completed by two cabochon emerald eyes, internal circumference 7 inches, signed VC&A, numbered 44190.1; circa 1965.

Lot 370 - 18 Karat Gold, Ivory, Colored Stone and Diamond Elephant Bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels

Lot 370 – 18 Karat Gold, Ivory, Colored Stone and Diamond Elephant Bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels

 

Lot 126 – 18 Karat Gold, Gem-Set and Diamond Brooch, Rene Boivin, France

Estimate:  40,000 – 60,000 USD

Lot 126 - 18 Karat Gold, Gem-Set and Diamond Brooch, Rene Boivin, France

Lot 126 – 18 Karat Gold, Gem-Set and Diamond Brooch, Rene Boivin, France

Designed as a dolphin set with round sapphires and emeralds, with a cabochon emerald eye, suspending an oval-shaped sapphire weighing approximately 13.00 carats, further decorated with round and pear-shaped diamonds weighing approximately .60 carat, signed René Boivin, with French assay and maker’s marks; circa 1960.

 

Lot 317 – Suite of 18 Karat Gold, Diamond, Ruby and Enamel Jewelry, Boucheron, Paris

Estimate:  30,000 – 40,000 USD

Lot 317 - Suite of 18 Karat Gold, Diamond, Ruby and Enamel Jewelry, Boucheron, Paris

Lot 317 – Suite of 18 Karat Gold, Diamond, Ruby and Enamel Jewelry, Boucheron, Paris

Comprising a necklace, brooch and a pair of earrings designed as meandering flowering vines with textured gold branches, the flower petals set with single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 8.75 carats, accented by 16 round rubies, with leaves highlighted in green enamel, necklace length 16 inches, signed Boucheron, Paris, numbered 59.061, with French assay marks; the brooch signed Boucheron, Paris, with French assay and workshop marks; the earrings signed Boucheron, Paris, numbered 36789, with French assay marks.

Lot 317 - Suite of 18 Karat Gold, Diamond, Ruby and Enamel Jewelry, Boucheron, Paris

Lot 317 – Suite of 18 Karat Gold, Diamond, Ruby and Enamel Jewelry, Boucheron, Paris

 

Lot 374 – Pair of 18 Karat Gold, Coral and Diamond Pendant-Earclips, Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris

Estimate:  30,000 – 50,000 USD

Lot 374 - Pair of 18 Karat Gold, Coral and Diamond Pendant-Earclips, Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris

Lot 374 – Pair of 18 Karat Gold, Coral and Diamond Pendant-Earclips, Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris

Suspending two coral cabochons measuring approximately 26.7 by 13.3 mm, topped by two round coral cabochons measuring approximately 10.1 mm, framed by round diamonds weighing approximately 11.50 carats, signed Van Cleef & Arpels Paris, numbered 37681, with maker’s mark; pendants detachable.

 

Lot 307 – Pair of Platinum, Lapis Lazuli, Sapphire and Diamond Pendant-Earrings, Cartier, Paris

Estimate:  25,000 – 35,000 USD

Lot 307 - Pair of Platinum, Lapis Lazuli, Sapphire and Diamond Pendant-Earrings, Cartier, Paris

Lot 307 – Pair of Platinum, Lapis Lazuli, Sapphire and Diamond Pendant-Earrings, Cartier, Paris

The drop-shaped lapis lazuli pendants topped by two pyramidal-shaped sapphires, spaced by columns and fan-shaped motifs set with old European, single and rose-cut diamonds weighing approximately .95 carat,signed Cartier, numbered 5388, with French assay marks; circa 1925. With signed box.

 

Lot 313 – Platinum, 18 Karat Gold, Emerald, Diamond, Onyx and Enamel Lapel-Watch, Verger Freres, France

Estimate:  25,000 – 35,000 USD

Lot 313 - Platinum, 18 Karat Gold, Emerald, Diamond, Onyx and Enamel Lapel-Watch, Verger Freres, France

Lot 313 – Platinum, 18 Karat Gold, Emerald, Diamond, Onyx and Enamel Lapel-Watch, Verger Freres, France

Set with an oval-shaped cabochon emerald measuring approximately 27.0 by 22.0 mm, suspended from a second oval-shaped cabochon emerald measuring approximately 17.9 by 15.3 mm, with two conical cabochon emerald accents measuring approximately 5.6 mm, set with old European and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 3.00 carats, with eight cabochon onyx tablets, the dial framed within a modified Greek key motif applied with black enamel,with French assay marks and maker’s marks for Verger Frères; circa 1925.

 

Lot 376 – Gold, Platinum, Citrine, Ruby, Diamond and Sapphire Clip-Brooch

Estimate:  20,000 – 30,000 USD

Lot 376 - Gold, Platinum, Citrine, Ruby, Diamond and Sapphire Clip-Brooch

Lot 376 – Gold, Platinum, Citrine, Ruby, Diamond and Sapphire Clip-Brooch

The polished gold hand with five drop-shaped cabochon ruby fingernails holding an emerald-cut citrine weighing approximately 100.00 carats, the lace cuff set with round and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately .50 carat, accented by 15 calibré-cut sapphires; circa 1940.

Catalogue Note

This brooch is reminiscent of the designs created during the partnership between Paul Flato and Fulco di Verdura. Often taking the form of amusing designs Flato called “whimsies,” both men shared a deep appreciation for jewels whose designs were bold and unconventional.Centering a citrine weighing approximately 100.00 carats, this design epitomizes the “big is beautiful” jewelry mentality of the late 1930s; in addition, the attention to detail calls to mind similar jewels by Flato which feature ruby-manicured fingernails and delicately adorned cuffs.

For additional information, please see Paul Flato: Jeweler to the Stars by Elizabeth Irvine Bray, pages 32 and 61-71. Also see Verdura: The Life and Work of a Master Jeweler by Patricia Corbett, pages 82-109.

 

Lot 11 – Pair of 18 Karat Gold, Colored Stone and Diamond Brooches, Nardi

Estimate:  18,000 – 22,000 USD

Lot 11 - Pair of 18 Karat Gold, Colored Stone and Diamond Brooches, Nardi

Lot 11 – Pair of 18 Karat Gold, Colored Stone and Diamond Brooches, Nardi

The textured gold fish with carved coral heads, one with a lapis lazuli tail and one with a turquoise tail, set with round diamonds together weighing approximately 1.70 carats, total gross weight approximately 30 dwts, both signed Nardi.

 

Lot 359 – Gold, Platinum, Emerald, Pearl and Diamond Brooch, Marcus & Co.

Estimate:  15,000 – 20,000 USD

Lot 359 - Gold, Platinum, Emerald, Pearl and Diamond Brooch, Marcus & Co.

Lot 359 – Gold, Platinum, Emerald, Pearl and Diamond Brooch, Marcus & Co.

Designed as a heart composed of scrollwork motifs, centering a round emerald weighing 2.82 carats, accented by two old European-cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.00 carats, further set with smaller old European and old mine-cut diamonds weighing approximately 1.00 carat, framed by 12 pearls measuring approximately 4.4 to 4.2 mm, signed Marcus & Co., fitted with retractable pendant loop; circa 1900.

Accompanied by a GIA report.

Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 58580 stating that the emerald is of Classic Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity enhancement.

 

Lot 170 – 18 Karat White Gold, Colored Stone, Mother-of-Pearl and Diamond ‘Triple Flower’ Brooch and a Pair of ‘Flower’ Earclips, Seaman Schepps

Estimate:  15,000 – 20,000 USD

Lot 170 - 18 Karat White Gold, Colored Stone, Mother-of-Pearl and Diamond 'Triple Flower' Brooch and a Pair of 'Flower' Earclips, Seaman Schepps

Lot 170 – 18 Karat White Gold, Colored Stone, Mother-of-Pearl and Diamond ‘Triple Flower’ Brooch and a Pair of ‘Flower’ Earclips, Seaman Schepps

The brooch designed as a trio of flowerheads, with petals composed of cabochon sapphires, turquoise and moonstones, centered by clusters of round diamonds weighing 2.88 carats, with one flowerhead accented by mother-of-pearl cabochons, signed Seaman Schepps, numbered 21383; together with floral earclips centered by round diamonds weighing 1.68 carats, with cabochon turquoise petals accented by cabochon sapphires weighing 2.59 carats, signed Seaman Schepps, numbered 21382. With signed pouch.

 

Lot 294 – 18 Karat White Gold and Diamond ‘Lotus’ Ring, Van Cleef & Arpels, France

Estimate:  15,000 – 20,000 USD

Lot 294 - 18 Karat White Gold and Diamond 'Lotus' Ring, Van Cleef & Arpels, France

Lot 294 – 18 Karat White Gold and Diamond ‘Lotus’ Ring, Van Cleef & Arpels, France

Of floral design, set with round diamonds weighing approximately 4.70 carats, size 5¾, signed V.C.A, numbered BL 18.2330 52, with French assay and maker’s marks; this style may be adjusted to be worn over one or two fingers.

 

Lot 287 – Platinum, Star Sapphire, Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet, Verdura

Estimate:  12,000 – 20,000 USD

Lot 287 - Platinum, Star Sapphire, Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet, Verdura

Lot 287 – Platinum, Star Sapphire, Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet, Verdura

Set with nine oval-shaped star sapphire cabochons weighing approximately 31.75 accented by 36 smaller round sapphire cabochons, further set with round diamonds weighing approximately 3.40 carats, length 7 inches, signed Verdura, numbered 0-143.

 

Lot 322 – 18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Diamond and Ruby Rooster Brooch, Oscar Heyman & Brothers

Estimate:  7,500 – 10,000 USD

Lot 322 - 18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Diamond and Ruby Rooster Brooch, Oscar Heyman & Brothers

Lot 322 – 18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Diamond and Ruby Rooster Brooch, Oscar Heyman & Brothers

Modeled in profile, set with round diamonds weighing approximately 6.40 carats, accented by a cabochon ruby comb and wattles, with a cabochon emerald eye,numbered 72439.

 

Please be sure to check back after the sale as I update each lot with its realized sale price.

All lot photos, estimates and descriptions courtesy of Sotheby’s

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