Jewelry Shows

A Recap of Vegas Jewelry Week: Part 4 – Five Trends from Couture 2015

Couture 2015 Trends

A week in Vegas is an unbearably long time to spend in such an indescribably foreign place. I felt as if I would never make it to the third and final jewelry show, Couture. By the time I stepped foot in the Wynn, my depleted energy resources were restored by the sunlit space underneath the cheery canopy of colorful flowers in the lobby. I migrated through the casino to the jewelry-filled ballrooms for my last hurrah of jewelry before departing on the red-eye.

While I wish I had had more time to peruse the overwhelming number of designers at Couture, I only had time for a few. On the whole, I observed several trends that pervaded the collections of many designers.

Entry Point Pricing

Clockwise from left: Alison Lou 14k yellow gold & enamel Bashful necklace, $485 (Stone & Strand); Anita Ko 18k rose gold & diamond Arrow stud earrings, $1,475; Monique Péan 18k rose gold Rod ring, $1,045; Mimi So mini Bow diamond knot necklace, $1,300; Ileana Makri 18k rose gold, diamond & sapphire Evil Eye ring, $1,285 (Net-a-Porter); Carolina Bucci large 18kk yellow hoop earrings, $950 (Net-a-Porter)

Clockwise from left: Alison Lou 14k yellow gold & enamel Bashful necklace, $485 (Stone & Strand); Anita Ko 18k rose gold & diamond Arrow stud earrings, $1,475; Monique Péan 18k rose gold Rod ring, $1,045; Mimi So mini Bow diamond knot necklace, $1,300; Ileana Makri 18k rose gold, diamond & sapphire Evil Eye ring, $1,285 (Net-a-Porter); Carolina Bucci large 18kk yellow hoop earrings, $950 (Net-a-Porter)

The first very clear trend was the demand for more entry point priced lines (under $1,500), affordable jewels for the young professional woman buying for herself. For many designers, the low price for this category clearly restricts creativity. The result of this demand is two-sided: providing an accessible fine jewelry product to the next generation consumer while at the same time constricting the range of design variation from which to choose as well as limiting the individual designer’s unique aesthetic. Most 18k gold pieces were understandably small in size and differed only slightly from the next, while those made in 14k, 10k or gold plate were more diverse and creative. Micropavé ear studs, small gold chains with a single diamond or a charming pendant, similarly fashioned chain bracelets as the necklace, and thin gold rings with a flourish or two. The other issue that designers face is the compromising of quality in order to keep costs, ergo prices, down. This is an on-going challenge for fine jewelry designers in the contemporary space, one which I hope will continue to grow and innovate over the next few years.

 

Stack Attack

Stack Attack 2

From top left: Yossi Harari gold and diamond bangles (MUSE); Zoë Chicco necklaces and rings; Jennifer Meyer set of 5 18k gold and gem-set rings (Net-a-Porter); Lito Wonderland Etta 18k gold, diamond & ruby ring (Net-a-Porter); Finn 18k gold & pink sapphire Knot ring; Elena Votsi 18k gold & ruby Eros ring (Stone & Strand); Diane Kordas 18k rose gold & diamond Arrow ring; Jemma Wynne 18k gold & gem-set bangles

One significant trend that emerges from the entry point jewelry is that of stacking. Collections of rings, necklaces, and bracelets of varying thinness and minimally varying design were devised with future stacks in mind. Instead of buying several pieces at once, the consumer can gradually build upon and customize their unique stack of rings or bracelets or chain necklaces with cute little pendants – ideally from the same designer. Some ring designs even appear to be a stack of many but are really just the single ring, effecting the same look with one purchase. Layering jewelry continues to be a fashionable look and these lower priced pieces meet the growing demand of young consumers. Essentially, today’s designers and brands are increasingly focused on building a young customer base and growing with them by offering of-the-moment jewels at modest prices that can be acquired over an extended period, adding to the stacks one jewel at a time.

 

No Ear Left Behind

Clockwise from left: Silvia Furmanovich 18k blackened gold, diamond and ruby earrings; Tomasz Donocik 18k rose gold & gem-set ear jackets; Venyx 18k yellow gold & diamond Miss Zeus ear cuff (Net-a-Porter); Repossi 18k white gold & diamond Serti Sur Vide ear cuff (Net-a-Porter); Yvonne Léon 18k gold, pearl & sapphire ear cuff (Net-a-Porter); Jemma Wynne 18k gold and diamond ear jacket; Lydia Courteille ruby & tourmaline Scarlett Empress Ear Climber

Clockwise from left: Silvia Furmanovich 18k blackened gold, diamond and ruby earrings; Tomasz Donocik 18k rose gold & gem-set ear jackets; Venyx 18k yellow gold & diamond Miss Zeus ear cuff (Net-a-Porter); Repossi 18k white gold & diamond Serti Sur Vide ear cuff (Net-a-Porter); Yvonne Léon 18k gold, pearl & sapphire ear cuff (Net-a-Porter); Jemma Wynne 18k gold and diamond ear jacket; Lydia Courteille ruby & tourmaline Scarlett Empress Ear Climber

Expanding on the earring trends of last year, no surface of the ear was forgotten between the latest collections at Couture. Ear cuffs, ear jackets, ear climbers, ear shields you name it, the ear has it. Every earring trend ever could be found in multiples, even mismatched earrings, asymmetrical earrings, front-to-back earrings, single earrings and of course the traditional styles of earrings. What new earring style will designers think of next?

 

A Kaleidoscope of Gems

Clockwise from left: Irene Neuwirth one-of-a-kind multi-colored gem necklace; Elena Votsi 18k gold tourmaline Cyclos earrings; Venyx multi-colored gem Red Chamaeleo ring; Katherine Jetter opal & diamond pendant necklace; Kara Ross gold diamond & cobalt calcit Petra Mosaic Raw Stone Fan earring

Clockwise from left: Irene Neuwirth one-of-a-kind multi-colored gem necklace; Elena Votsi 18k gold tourmaline Cyclos earrings; Venyx multi-colored gem Red Chamaeleo ring; Katherine Jetter opal & diamond pendant necklace; Kara Ross gold diamond & cobalt calcit Petra Mosaic Raw Stone Fan earring

The traditional gems of yesteryears have been eclipsed by the technicolor dream jewels of the present. Consumer demand for jewelry set with gems of every shade of the rainbow has sent prices for multi-colored spinels, tourmalines, garnets, sapphires, and the like sky high. The color of the stones has become an integral part of the design, if not the main attraction of it. For nature-inspired jewels, realistically hued gems bring the designs to life while monochromatic motifs were sparkling studies of a single color. Diamonds are still omnipresent, for that hint of glint, but vibrant color abounded everywhere this year.

More Than Your Average Ring

Clockwise from left: Nikos Koulis Spectrum double ring; Elena Votsi gold & diamond Ribbon ring; Cristina Ortiz rose gold & brown diamond Wing ring (not at Couture); Stephen Webster Belle Epoque Armadillo Long Finger Ring; Fernando Jorge Stream open ring

Clockwise from left: Nikos Koulis Spectrum double ring; Elena Votsi gold & diamond Ribbon ring; Cristina Ortiz rose gold & brown diamond Wing ring (not at Couture); Stephen Webster Belle Epoque Armadillo Long Finger Ring; Fernando Jorge Stream open ring

 

Just like the earring trends, rings have been on a trendy kick lately. There is a ring for every inch of every finger, it seems. Between-the-finger rings remain as omnipresent as ever while designs for midi-rings, two-finger rings, and full-finger rings upped the finger bling ante. As mentioned earlier, stackable rings are also oh-so-hot right now.

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1 Comment

  • Reply
    Ginni S
    June 19, 2015 at 10:17 pm

    Thank you for your reporting on Las Vegas Jewelry Week. I always appreciate your well-informed and articulate insights!

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