One of the main highlights at Masterpiece London is the contemporary jewelry house Hemmerle. Best known for its bold modernist motifs, the Munich-based jeweler will bring a number of its newest wares to the annual fair. Hemmerle’s distinct style evolved in the 1990s with the setting of a diamond not in gold or platinum but in textured iron, an unprecedented idea from Stefan Hemmerle that set the tone for the house’s avant-garde aesthetic celebrated today.
A signature of Hemmerle’s, the Harmony Bangle is a staple for collectors today. The bangle was first developed from a gold and platinum prototype in the 1980s, evolving to a flawlessly proportioned bangle after refining the bracelet’s dimensions over time. The resulting Harmony Bangle, as its name implies, represents its perfectly balanced design, even the intricately engineered closure is so seamless it is almost completely undetectable. Hemmerle’s Harmony bangles can be found in the permanent collections of London’s Victoria and Albert Museum and New York’s Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum. The latest edition of the iconic bangle, and a veritable highlight at Masterpiece, is crafted in dark ebony wood with copper and white diamond whirls capping the ends.
Like a refined rebel with a superb sense of style, a pair of distinctly shaped earrings features graduated pear-shaped diamonds radiating from conical pendants set with diamonds in a blackened silver frame. The earrings are intricately engineered and balanced to allow movement through the framework when worn while also being surprisingly light.
Staying within the black and white color scheme, a pair of earrings focuses on the lightning-like pattern of black septarian pendants. The striking lines in shades of grey and white are reflected in similar style by the domes, whose white diamonds zip and zap across the blackened silver settings.
No selection of Hemmerle jewels is complete without a sip of its juicy colored stones. As refreshing as a dip in the ocean on a hot summer day, a pair of earrings features two aquamarines with cool blue hues akin to shallow pools of water. The large aquas are accented by reverse-set smaller aquamarines to add a spiky effect.
In the final highlight, the canopy of the forest is captured in a pair of rich dark green tourmalines juxtaposed by light silvery blue hued garnets set in a silver frame.