Wrapping up their spring season, Sotheby’s Fine Jewels sale this week in London is packed with great jewels from the 17th century to the present day. Naturally, flowers are prominent motifs throughout the sale as well as vibrantly hued stones. Highlights include two pieces by Art Nouveau master René Lalique, a number of mid-century jewels by Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin, stunning jewelry from throughout the 19th century, an elegant natural pearl and diamond pendant by Boucheron, and a fabulous diamond ‘Mirror Ball’ necklace by contemporary designer Solange Azagury-Partridge.
Below are my favorites from the sale:
Designed as four blue enamel square plaques, each applied with a motif of carved hardstone flowers, accented with single-cut diamonds, framed with millegrain-set lines of circular-cut diamonds, linked by carved open work onyx links and millegrain-set diamond batons, length approximately 185mm, unsigned, fitted case stamped Jul Hugle.
Each suspending an emerald drop from a surmount millegrain-set with brilliant-cut and pear-shaped diamonds, post fittings.
Of ribbon bow design, the centre set with a step-cut emerald within a border of cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, surrounded by similarly set ribbon motifs, suspending a detachable emerald drop, encircled by a serpent set with rose diamonds and cabochon ruby eyes, French assay marks, later fitted case.
Designed as a graduated series of spheres pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 520mm, maker’s mark and British hallmarks, case stamped Solange.
Of foliate design set with natural pearls of grey and cream tint, millegrain-set with circular- and single-cut diamonds, to a later fine link necklace, length approximately 440mm, later signed Boucheron.
Designed as an eagle, set with circular-cut diamonds with a ruby eye, one diamond deficient, detachable brooch pin, fitted case by Carrington & Co, 130 Regent Street, applied with the crowned monogram for the Marquis of Anglesey.
Composed of a series of scroll and quatrefoil links set with circular-cut and rose diamonds, 1890s, suspending a detachable Latin cross pendant similarly set, 1830s, length approximately 395mm, fitted case stamped Carrington & Co Ltd.
The central articulated panel designed as a series of scarab beetle and foliate motifs set with plique-à-jourenamel, signed Lalique, to a series of fancy links of floral design, length approximately 190mm.
This bracelet was given as a gift from René Lalique to his daughter Suzanne Lalique, who then gave it as a wedding present to the current owner’s mother.
The plaques designed with floral motifs applied in enamel and plique-à-jour enamel, signed Lalique, length approximately 420mm.
The brooch of palmette design, set with step-cut and pear-shaped citrines of varying tones, accented with circular-cut diamonds, signed Cartier, maker’s mark, one citrine deficient, fitted case stamped Cartier; the ring set with a step-cut citrine, size O, signed Cartier.
Of floral design, set with cabochon rubies and brilliant-cut diamonds of yellow and near colourless tint, to open work geometric straps, length approximately 160mm, signed Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin, numbered, case Stamped Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin.
Of floral design, set with cabochon rubies and brilliant-cut diamonds of yellow and near colourless tint, signed Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin, numbered, case stamped Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin.
Designed as a chain of stylised nails, suspending a tiger’s eye plaque supporting the figure of Christ within a surround of thorns, length approximately 600mm, may be shortened to 400mm, signed Dali, numbered.
Each designed as an ice cream cone, set with polished gem stones, including amethyst, chalcedony and mother of pearl and brilliant-cut diamonds, each signed Bulgari, case stamped Bulgari.