Last week in Paris, the 2015 Fall Couture shows pulled out all the glitz and opulent glamour expected from high fashion. In fact, this season’s collections were as extravagant as ever. No sequin or bead nor feather or fur were left un-sewn in the sumptuous haute couture creations strutting down the runways. Whereas in previous years a sense of austerity seemed to prevail, this year the pent-up plentitude was released all at once, resulting in a rush of rivetingly ritzy ensembles.
Fashion as art, and – as Viktor & Rolf showed us – art as fashion, became clear as each house rivaled the next with not only its over-the-top designs but the lavish atmospheres in which they were unveiled. Chanel converted the magnificent Grand Palais, on its a own a marvel to be awed, into a star-studded casino where Chanel-clad celebrities like Julianne Moore and Kristen Stewart, who were wearing re-editions of Coco Chanel’s 1932 high-jewelry collection “Bijoux de Diamants”, gambled at the tables whilst models flounced around them in the house’s Fall Couture fashions. Meanwhile at Dior, artistic director Raf Simons explored Bosch’s “The Garden of Earthly Delights” in bold fashions that traversed the runway – and its ogling audience – housed within a faux-glass structure made of 356 geometric panes hand-painted in a colorful array of impressionistic flowers in the Musée Rodin.
Fantastical venues aside, the plush fabrics along with superfluous details on every pleat, panel and ruffle left little room for jeweled adornment, as the gowns themselves glistened liked their precious counterparts. For those dresses reserving that extra sparkle for jewelry, only the finest jewels will do – creations made by the high jewelry houses and most coveted contemporary designers. Luckily, many of the jewelry firms revealed new collection or one-of-a-kind pieces to clients and editors attending the couture shows. To that end, I’ve paired some of the newest creations from both the Haute Couture and Haute Joaillerie worlds.