The first auction at Doyle this season, the Important Jewels sale comprises 505 lots of fantastic jewels. Spanning the Antique, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau, Art Deco and Modern eras, the sale offers jewelry for every taste and budget. Pieces signed by the world’s most prestigious houses, such as Cartier, David Webb, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari and Harry Winston (to name a few) will share the block with superb diamonds and gemstones. Also included in the sale is the collection of master jeweler Irving Gold, who created iconic jewels for Van Cleef & Arpels for more than 60 years.
Platinum, Ruby and Diamond ‘Trombino’ Ring, Bulgari
Centering one cushion modified mixed-cut ruby approximately 7.28 cts., flanked by 8 baguette diamonds, pave-set with 68 round diamonds, altogether approximately 3.70 cts., signed Bulgari. Size 5 1/4.
Most notable in the sale are the number of important colored stone rings: a diamond and ruby ‘Trombino’ ring by Bulgari featuring a 7.28-carat Burmese ruby (est. $200,000-300,000); an 10.37-carat Colombian emerald and diamond ring by Bayco (est. $150,000-250,000); a 17.74 ‘Royal Blue’ Burmese sapphire and diamond ring (est. $150,000-250,000); and a 6.72-carat Colombian emerald and diamond ring by Bulgari (est. $120,000-180,000).
Platinum and Diamond Ring, Van Cleef & Arpels
Centering one cut-cornered step-cut emerald-cut diamond approximately 8.34 cts., flanked by 2 tapered baguette diamonds, signed VCA, NY, no. 38247-4. Size 4 1/2.
With GIA report no. 2171153122 stating that the diamond is D color, VVS2 clarity, type IIa.
A mainstay in every sale, superb diamonds also sparkle bright, led by a an 8.34-carat emerald-cut D/VVS2/Type IIa diamond ring by Van Cleef & Arpels (est. $250,000-350,000). Other diamond highlights include rings set with a 11.65-carat emerald-cut I/VS2 diamond (est. $150,000-250,000); a 6.13-carat round J/VS1 diamond (est. $70,000-90,000); and a 4.45-carat oval D/VVS2 diamond (est. $50,000-70,000).
Pair of Platinum and Diamond Pendant-Earclips, Harry Winston
Topped by 2 round diamonds approximately 4.17 cts., joined by 4 round and marquise-shaped diamonds approximately 2.00 cts., suspending 2 pear-shaped diamonds approximately 6.06 cts., signed HW, no. 62138.
Noteworthy earrings and necklaces also feature prominently in the sale, such as a pair of platinum and diamond pendant earrings by Harry Winston (est. $125,000-225,000) and diamond pendant necklace also by Harry Winston suspending a 4.67-carat pear-shaped diamond (est. $75,000-100,000).
Pair of Hammered Repousse Gold Cuff Bangle Bracelets, Van Cleef & Arpels 18 kt., the wide hammered gold cuffs depicting a stylized leaping ram and bull, amidst leaves, flanked by tumbling male figures and crescent moons, edged by small gold beading, signed VCA NY, no. 2V6931, approximately 75.2 dwts. Inner circles 6 1/4 inches, open backs.
From the collection of Irving Gold, a number of unique pieces the jeweler made for Van Cleef & Arpels join masterpieces of the same ilk also made by Mr. Gold. My favorites from his collection include a pair of hammered repousse gold cuff bangle bracelets, Van Cleef & Arpels (est. $10,000-15,000); a carved coral, diamond and cabochon emerald dragon-head ring, by Van Cleef & Arpels (est. $2,000-3,000); and an Art Deco diamond and emerald brooch (est. $20,000-30,000).
Here the additional highlights from the sale:
Platinum, Sapphire and Diamond Ring – Est. $150,000-250,000
Platinum and Diamond Pendant-Necklace, Harry Winston – Est. $75,000-100,000
Platinum, Cabochon Emerald and Diamond ‘Trombino’ Ring, Bulgari – ESt. $30,000-40,000
Art Deco Platinum, Diamond and Emerald Brooch – Est. $20,000-30,000
Pair of Platinum, Emerald and Diamond Pendant-Earclips, Van Cleef & Arpels – Est. $20,000-30,000
Platinum, Emerald and Diamond Ring, Bulgari – Est. $120,000-180,000
Pair of Platinum, Red Spinel Bead and Diamond Earclips, David Webb – Est. $25,000-35,000
High Karat Gold and Diamond Pendant-Necklace, Jean Mahie – Est. $40,000-60,000
Platinum, Silver, Diamond and Natural Pearl Brooch – Est. $25,000-35,000
Platinum, Cabochon Sapphire and Diamond ‘Ecailles’ Ring, René Boivin – Est. $8,000-12,000
Pair of Gold, Platinum, Diamond and Sapphire Flower Earrings, Van Cleef & Arpels – Est. $7,000-9,000
Gold Choker Necklace, David Webb – Est. $4,000-6,000
Belle Epoque Gold, Platinum, Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet, Verger Freres – $2,500-3,500
Gold, Platinum, Diamond and Natural Pearl Bird Brooch, Verdura – Est. $4,000-6,000
Gold, Carved Coral, Diamond and Cabochon Emerald Dragon Head Ring, Van Cleef & Arpels – Est. $2,000-3,000
Gold Fringe Necklace, Bulgari – Est. $6,000-8,000
Gold, Platinum and Diamond Clip and Pair of Pendant-Earclips, Verger Freres – Est. $10,000-15,000
Gold, Diamond and Black Onyx Giraffe Clip-Brooch, Cartier, France – Est. $20,000-30,000
Gold, Platinum, Diamond, Ruby and Sapphire Bracelet, Verger Freres – Est. $15,000-20,000
Gold Fish Link Necklace, David Webb – Est. $8,000-12,000
Pair of Gold and White Enamel Earclips, David Webb – Est. $3,000-4,000
Antique Gold and Purple Enamel Flower Pin, Tiffany & Co. – Est. $3,000-4,000
Gold and Inlaid Hardstone Bangle Bracelet, Tiffany & Co. – Est. $6,000-8,000