The December calendar is stacked with jewelry auctions for the next two weeks, perfectly timed for the lavish gift giving that goes hand in hand with the holidays. Often times, keeping up with every single sale can be extremely overwhelming. Making things simpler for all those who love to shop at auction is Bidsquare, a one stop shopping experience where you can find exceptional pieces from leading auction houses.
This week and next, more than ten jewelry auctions will take place on Bidsquare and I’ve put together highlights from each in a two part series.
First up on December 4th is Fine Jewelry at Auction at Stair Galleries, a small auction house located in Hudson, New York. The sale is full of great 20th century and modern pieces by Bulgari, Tiffany & Co., Cartier, and Boucheron.
18K YELLOW AND WHITE GOLD AND DIAMOND PENDANT NECKLACE, GIANMARIA BUCCELLATI Clasps signed; lacy, starburst pendant-brooch with gold chain, with 1 emerald-cut diamond weight .50 carat, 2.60 carats of rounds diamonds and a marquise-shaped diamond weighing .75 carat. Estimate: $5,000 – 7,000
18K GOLD AND COLORED STONE BRACELET, TIFFANY & CO., PALOMA PICASSO Round polished links set with cabochon colored stones including pink and green tourmalines, amethyst, citrine and aquamarine. Estimate: $2,000 – 3,000
TWO COLOR 18K GOLD BRACELET, BY BULGARI Yellow and white gold fluted double cone links, with plunge clasp, signed. Estimate: $1,500 – 2,500
GEORGIAN DIAMOND FLOWER PIN Pierced silver and gold mounting set with old-mine diamonds weighing 9.00 to 10.00 carats. Estimate: $10,000 – 15,000
LAPIS BEAD, CORAL AND DIAMOND BRACELET, DAVID WEBB With carved lapis beads and 18k gold clasp with 1.50 carats of diamonds and a floral carved pink coral, signed ‘Webb, 18kt, Plat’. Estimate: $3,000 – 4,000
18K GOLD, CULTURED PEARL AND GREEN CHALCEDONY BRACELET, BULGARI Double-strand of rope textured gold, entwined with a strand of 5mm pearls and green chalcedony beads. Estimate: $1,000 – 1,500
18K GOLD AND ENAMEL ELEPHANT BANGLE, BULGARI Hinged mounting of textured greenish gold, with champlevé enamel flowers and leaves of red, blue and green, with diamond eyes. 3 x 2 1/4 in. interior diam., 52.9 dwts. Provenance: Bulgari, Rome, Italy, August 13, 1968. Estimate: $6,000 – 8,000
DIAMOND FLOWER BROOCH, BULGARI The blooms, one of platinum and one of 18k gold on a textured branch with diamond buds weighing 9.00 carats. Estimate: $3,000 – 6,000
Leland Little, based in Hillsborough, North Carolina, will also have its Fine Estate Jewely & Watches auction this Friday, December 4th. The sale includes a wide variety of jewels for every budget, from gold link bracelets to a diamond ring by Harry Winston. Additional highlights include jewels by David Webb, Buccellati, Schlumberger, Elizabeth Gage, and possible a shell brooch by Verdura.
Platinum Diamond Ring, Harry Winston, set to the center with one cushion brilliant cut diamond weighing 1.02 carat (F color, VS1 clarity) within a pavé set frame and shank set with 75 full cut round diamonds weighing approximately .45 total carat (D-F color, VS2 clarity) in a platinum mount signed by maker and marked for platinum. Estimate: $4,000 – 8,000
18KT Gold and Diamond Bracelet, the flexible yellow gold bracelet comprised of hinged S links each with full and single cut round diamonds, the diamonds weighing approximately 5.50 carats (F-G color, VVS – VS clarity) bead set in white gold and terminating in an integrated fold over clasp stamped “H.B.” and testing 18KT. Estimate: $2,000 – 4,000
Platinum Diamond Earrings, Schlumberger, circa 1960s, each in a single leaf design and each set with full cut round diamonds with a combined weight of the pair of approximately 1.25 total carat (E-F color, VVS clarity) and accented with an 18KT yellow gold stem, signed “Tiffany & Co. / Schlumberger Studios” and completed with gold posts and push backs. Estimate: $1,000 – 2,000
Platinum, Diamond, and Sapphire Ring, centered with one bezel set Old European cut diamond weighing approximately 2.80 carats (I color, VVS2 clarity) and framed by channel set modified square cut blue sapphires weighing approximately .46 total carats in a platinum mount. Estimate: $8,000 – 12,000
14KT Shell, Ruby, and Diamond Brooch, att. Verdura, the natural shell set to the top with one bezel set oval cabochon ruby and accented to one side with bezel set round cabochon rubies and to the other side with bezel set full cut round diamonds weighing approximately .15 carat (F-G color, VS clarity) and with a yellow gold conforming support completed with a hinged double pin stem, stamped 14KT and with scratch marks “T8347” and “V8327.” Estimate: $1,000 – 3,000
18KT Gold and Enamel Cuff Links, David Webb, mid-twentieth century, in a two-sided design of cushion shape alternating in black and white enamel stripes outlined in gold, fully signed and stamped 18KT. Estimate: $800 – 1,200
18KT Gold and Mother of Pearl Brooch, M. Buccellati, designed in textured yellow gold in foliate form and set with mother of pearl “stalks” and completed with a double hinged pin stem and trombone closure, signed M. Buccellati and stamped 750 / Italy. Estimate: $800 – 1,600
Pair of 14KT Coral and Peridot Ear Clips, Maz, each centered with one round cut and faceted peridot and framed by oval red coral cabochons and accented with prong set round cut and faceted peridot, completed with Omega clip backs, stamped 14KT and signed. Estimate: $500 – 900
18KT Tourmaline, Pearl, and Ancient Coin Brooch, Elizabeth Gage, bezel set to the center with one Roman Republican silver denarius, circa 82 B.C., showing Mercury on the obverse and Ulysses greeted by his dog Argus on the reverse, with a yellow gold mount having a wire and granulation finish accented with bezel set pear cut green tourmaline and bezel set oval cut tourmaline and suspending one cultured pearl, completed with single pin stem and trombone closure, signed and hallmarked. Estimate: $1,000 – 3,000
14KT Bracelet, Charles Hopkins, the flexible link bracelet composed of hinged rectangular links in a naturalistic design terminating in an integrated box clasp stamped 14KT and signed by maker. Estimate: $900 – 1,800
After a Saturday break, the action picks up again in a big way on Sunday, December 6th. Jewelry auctions at Rago, Cowan’s Auctions, and Leslie Hindman will set the tone for the major jewelry sales that week.
At Rago, an auction house based in Lambertville, New Jersey, the Fine and Antique Jewelry, Couture, Objets de Vertu sale is packed with collectible pieces. As the principal jewelry sale of the year, this auction features the collection of Dora Jane Janson, author of ‘Slave to Siren’, numerous fantastic Art Nouveau jewels including several signed by René Lalique, colorful pieces by Native American Charles Loloma and a Cartier pinecone diamond and platinum shoulder brooch.
A large Lorraine thistle jewel rendered in silver-topped gold, frosted with rose cut diamonds in original case. Marked Andre Kauffer. Ft (farbricane) Joaillier-Orfevre, Nancy. French marks for 18k and silver. Maker marks of Francois Fleuret and A. Kauffer, Nancy, ca. 1890. 8″, transforms to 6″ by removing longest drop. 63.7 dwt. Note: The Lorraine Thistle, a favorite of Andre Kauffer, adorns his letter paper and repeats in the silver punch bowls he designed for presentation to the Russian Squadron in 1893. His work appears in the collection of Museum of Decorative Arts, Paris, Ecole de Nancy. Provenance: Collection of Dora Jane Janson. Estimate: $9,000 – 12,000
White horn carved as umbel blossoms with rose cut diamond dew drops, ca. 1900. Incused mark Lalique. 3 3/8″ x 4 3/4″. 31.4 gs. Note: Pencil sketch with color described as “design drawing without deviation”: Barton, Sigrid. Rene Lalique Schmuck und Objets d’Art . Cat.# 103A, pg. 104. Provenance: Collection of Dora Jane Janson. Estimate: $7,000 – 9,000
Modeled as nude nymph tacked through torso and one draped wing, the other wing folded beneath her body, her countenance expressing ecstatic agony, ca. 1900. Maker mark of Rene Lalique, French eagle mark for 18k, incused Lalique. 4 1/2″ x 4 5/8″. 116.5 dwt. Provenance: Collection of Dora Jane Janson. Estimate: $50,000 – 75,000
Nine naturalistic variegated ivy leaves of shaded translucent enameled gold supported by gold stems and vine, 1895-1915. Marks for Carlo and Arthur Giulliano. 2 1/2″ x 4 1/4″ x 4 1/2″. 34.8 dwt. GW Estimate: $8,000 – 10,000
Naturalistic morning glory cluster rendered in the feminine form, shaded pink/yellow buds open to diamond centered blossoms, plique-à-jour leaves. Detachable chain composed of shaded pink tubular links and green plique a jour leaf-form links. Cased by Shaw & Brown Co., Washington, DC, ca. 1900. Unmarked. Attributed to Marcus & Co., New York. Evidence of an original brooch fitting, now lost. 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″, 17″ chain. 19.9 dwt. Estimate: $15,000 – 20,000
18k yg. articulated brooch with plique-à-jour enamel foliage and dogtooth pearl wisteria blossoms, ca. 1900. Attrib. to Vever, possibly after a design by Rene Lalique. French eagle mark for 18k, no maker mark evident. 5 1/4″ x 3″. 24 dwt. Note: Collection of Dora Jane Janson. Reference: Comb and brooch by Rene Lalique. Bartan, Sigrid. Rene Lalique. Collection of Museum of Applied Art, Vienna, cat. #68A. Provenance: From the Collection of Dora Jane Janson. Literature: Janson, Dora Jane. From Slave to Siren. The Duke University Museum of Art. 1971. Cat. #134. Estimate: $10,000 – 20,000
Sarpech form set with ten semi-spherical pearls and diamonds among tendrils on leaf green enameled ground, diamond capped emerald drop, 15.93 x 14 x 7.9 mm., 15 diamonds approx. 1.26 cts. TW. Incused mark M+Co. Retailed by Frank Pollak & Sons, New York, May 18th 1968. 3″ x 1 5/8″. 22.8 dwt. Estiamte: $5,000 – 7,000
In the Persian style, 18k gold arabesque and drop set with opal and chrysoprase floriforms on green translucent enamel ground, detachable brooch findings and hinged bail for pendant wear, ca. 1910. Arched label marked Marcus & Co. Retailed by Frank Pollak & Sons, New York, November 9th, 1967. 3 1/2″ x 2″. 20 dwt. Estimate: $5,000 – 7,000
Gold grapevine bracelet and brooch with emerald pavé leaves and mauve pearl grape clusters, white pearl and diamond accents, attrib. to Jean-Valentin Morel, London, ca. 1850. Similar example: Vever, “French Jewelry of the 19th Cent.”, pg. 352. French import mark, ca. 1893. Hinged bracelet fits 7″, brooch 1 3/4″. 30.2 dwt. Provenance: Collection of Dora Jane Janson, Literature: Janson, Dora Jane. From Slave to Siren. The Duke University Museum of Art. 1971. Cat. #34. Estimate: $5,000 – 7,000
Rusticated vine links the central elements with emerald pavé leaves, mauve pearl grape clusters, the balance with green enameled foliage gray and white pearl accents. Attrib. to Jean-Valentin Morel, London, ca. 1850. Similar example: Vever, “French Jewelry of the 19th Cent.”, pg. 352. French importation mark, ca. 1894. 19 1/2″. 44.2 dwt. Provenance: Collection of Dora Jane Janson, Literature: Janson, Dora Jane. From Slave to Siren. The Duke University Museum of Art. 1971. Cat #34. Estimate: $8,000 – 10,000
Five exceptional Roman landscape micromosaics on blue ground in 18k yellow gold conforming links, souvenir of Rome, depicts five Italian landscape paintings, 17th and 18th c. Each reverse inscribed with the artist’s name and exhibition location, incl.: Salvator Rosa at the National Gallery of Londres, and the Academy of St. Luca; Claude de Lorraine at the Galleries of Prince Canino and Prince Doria; Vernet at the Gallery of Prince Borghese, 1828. 7 1/8″ x 1 1/4″. 81.3 dwt. GW. In original box embossed with coronet and gothic PE below coronet. Provenance: Collection of Dora Jane Janson. Estimate: $7,000 – 9,000
Bloomed 18k gold dragon after a 16th century design, granulated and ornamented with applied wirework, patinated silver wings and tail set with circular cut diamonds, its breast shielded by blister pearl and diamond cluster, suspending a large pear shaped baroque saltwater pearl. GIA report #16255488 describes Natural Baroque pearl, 16.57 x 14.90 x 11.56 mm. OEC, OMC RBC diamonds, approx. 4.15 cts. TW, ca. 1930. Unmarked. 23.7 dwt. Estimate: $10,000 – 20,000
Geometric stepped concentric inlay in 18k yellow gold includes lapis, coral, turquoise. Purchased from the artist, ca. 1990. Signed Loloma. Size 6. 12.5 dwt. Estimate: $2,000 – 3,000
14 links with concealed hook closure. Marked 1985 Cummings 18k. 17″ x 1 1/4″. 48.2 dwt. Estimate: $1,400 – 1,800
Broad ribbon of OEC diamonds and shaped emeralds designed as a meandering vine. Diamonds approx. 10 cts. TW, ca. 1935. Unmarked. 7″ x 13/16″. 32.5 dwt. Estimate: $20,000 – 25,000
Paris, designed in 1922. Executed with onyx and pearls. Detachable articulated pinecone form pendant, with 9 mm. saltwater pearl, seed pearl and diamond icicle fringe, suspends from seven onyx or diamond platinum links (the largest two are hinged), below a panel brooch in the Persian style. Diamond melee, approx. 12 cts. TW. Inscribed Cartier #0420, French marks for platinum. Revised and additionally set with an OEC diamond, approx. 2.90 cts., and two pear shaped diamonds, approx. 2 cts. TW. Retailed by Frank Pollak & Sons, New Literature: Rudoe, Judy, Cartier: 1900-1939, Harry N. Abrams, Inc. & The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1997, pgs. 312-313; Vassallo, Nuno, Silva, E., et al. Cartier 1899-1949; Skira, The Journey of a Style, 2007, pgs. 198-199. Estimate: $40,000 – 60,000
Platinum flower basket set with RBC and baguette cut diamonds, carved sapphire blossoms, button pearl accents, diamond shoulders, platinum hoop, diamonds, approx. .90 ct. TW, ca. 1930. Unmarked. Size 5. 3.8 dwt. Provenance: Estate of Rudy Dusek, who, with his brother, was known as the wrestler, “Dusek Riot Squad”. Estimate: $1,200 – 1,800
Five cushion cut well matched blue sapphires, 11.5 cts. TW by formula, adorn geometrically pierced full-set diamond strap. 330 circular brilliant or rose cut diamonds, approx. 6 cts. TW. AGL report #CS 67084 describes five natural, untreated, cushion and oval mixed cut blue sapphires, approx. 9.6 x 8 x 3.57 mm. to 8.9 x 7.5 x 3.48 mm., originating from Burma (Myanmar). Incused #83284, unsigned. 7″ x 1/2″. 25.3 dwt. Estimate: $15,000 – 25,000
Platinum pendant earrings, coggled crystal disk with diamond and green enamel surmount suspends two diamond links to oval crystal tablet set with OEC diamonds and carved jade, diamonds approx. 6.0 cts. TW, 14k shepherd’s hook wires, ca. 1938. Unmarked. 2 1/2″ x 1 3/16″. 19.9 dwt. GW Estimate: $7,500 – 8,500
At Cowan’s Auctions, Victorian jewelry features prominently in the Fine Jewelry and Timepieces sale at the Cincinnati-based auction house.
An 18k yellow gold brooch from Collingwood Jewellers LTD. containing one 31.33mm x 25.08mm x 14.43mm cushion cut natural aquamarine center weighing approximately 23.93 carats surrounded by thirty 4mm pearls. Original fitted box included. Estimate: $2,000 – 3,000
A pendant and earring set, ca 1865, from Boodle and Dunthorne of Liverpool. Cobalt blue enamel and rose cut diamonds highlight all three pieces along with bezel set pearls and a hidden compartment in the reverse of the pendant. Original fitted box included. Estimate: $3,000 – 5,000
A rare and complete early Victorian parure consisting of 70mm x 21mm earrings with pink stones, a 62mm x 36mm cannetille cross with pink stones and an 18″ necklace with pink stones and cannetille floral designs with rococo inspired links that can be removed in three separate sections to create different lengths or a bracelet. A small loop drops down from the main necklace to allow the cross to be attached. Original fitted box included. Estimate: $1,500 – 2,500
An outstanding Victorian seed pearl parure consisting of one 18″ necklace, a 40mm. brooch and two 55mm chandelier drop earrings with screw backs. Original fitted box included. Estimate: $2,000 – 3,000
A large Victorian finely carved cameo cross in 18k yellow gold featuring a black and white scene of angels and a robed woman floating on a cloud. The cross can be worn as a brooch or a pendant and contains twenty clean, white mine cut diamonds weighing approximately two carats total weight. A hinged stand allows the cross to be placed upright for viewing. 69mm x 48mm. Estimate: $800, 1,200
A Victorian 18k micro-mosaic earring and brooch mourning set featuring granulation throughout and inlaid mosaics depicting birds with flowers and minute stars around the borders. Brooch has chatelaine hook and viewing window on reverse. Estimate: $1,000 – 1,500
Lastly, Leslie Hindman will round out this first installment of a two part series featuring the jewelry sales on Bidsquare. Below are some additional highlights from the Important Jewelry sale at Leslie Hindman. For more details and highlights, please see my earlier post.
A Vintage 18 Karat Yellow Gold and Blue Enamel Paillonne Bracelet, Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., France, a bombe bangle applied with blue paillonne enamel, spaced by ribbed gold bands, the links alternately studded with lozenge shape and dot motif gold accents, measuring approximately 18.60 mm wide. Hand inscribed: TIFFANY (scratch mark 929) SCHLUMBERGER MADE IN FRANCE (French assay and maker’s marks). Estimate $ 10,000-15,000
A Vintage 18 Karat Yellow Gold and White Enamel Paillonne Bracelet, Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., France, a bombe bangle applied with white paillonne enamel, spaced by ribbed gold bands, the links alternately studded with lozenge shape and dot motif gold accents, measuring approximately 18.25 mm wide. Hand inscribed: TIFFANY (scratch marks 1113) SCHLUMBERGER MADE IN FRANCE (French assay and maker’s marks). Estimate $ 10,000-15,000
An 18 Karat Yellow Gold, Coral and Diamond Maltese Cross Brooch, Wander, France, containing a central oval cabochon cut angel skin coral measuring approximately 15.64 x 12.48 mm and numerous angelskin coral sections, together with 22 round brilliant cut diamonds weighing approximately 3.52 carats total, the brooch measures approximately 74.00 x 74.00 mm. Stamp: (WANDER partially obscured) FRANCE. Estimate $ 12,000-18,000
An Art Deco Platinum, Gold, Diamond and Emerald Bracelet, in an openwork geometric link design, containing one marquise cut diamond weighing approximately 1.05 carats, two marquise cut diamonds weighing approximately 1.66 carats total, together with 258 old European, 60 round single, and 74 baguette cut diamonds weighing approximately 30.00 carats total, together with three oval mixed cut emeralds set within gold settings and weighing approximately 8.00 carats total, both the gold settings and the emeralds are of later addition. Stamp: 10%IRIDPLAT. Estimate $ 22,000-28,000
An 18 Karat Two Tone Gold, Diamond, Onyx and Ruby, Articulated Duck Hunting Motif Brooch, Cartier, Italy, in a whimsical design depicting a sculpted and textured hunting duck with an articulated swiveling head cradling a rifle, containing 15 round single cut diamonds weighing approximately 0.15 carat total, two round cabochon cut black onyx eyes and one round cabochon cut ruby. Stamp: 18CT CARTIER ITALY. Hand inscribed: 4946. Estimate $ 2,500-3,500
An Art Deco Platinum, Diamond, Emerald and Onyx Ring, containing one antique cushion cut diamond weighing approximately 2.37 carats, 10 old European cut diamonds weighing approximately 0.20 carat total, 37 calibre cut emeralds, and eight calibre cut onyx. Estimate $ 10,000-15,000
A Platinum, Diamond and Sapphire Ring, containing one transitional round brilliant cut diamond weighing approximately 1.25 carat total within an octagonal channel set surround containing 39 calibre cut sapphires. Estimate $ 6,000-8,000
An Art Nouveau Yellow Gold, Tourmaline and Polychrome Enamel Necklace, consisting of 17 open scrollwork links accented with black and white enamel and containing 17 oval mixed cut greenish blue tourmaline measuring approximately 7.00 x 4.90 mm each. Stamp: 585 (maker’s mark). Estimate $ 3,000-5,000
An Edwardian Platinum, Natural Pearl and Diamond Pendant, of intricate open filigree design in a lozenge form, centered around a natural pearl measuring approximately 6.12 mm in diameter, containing four old European cut diamonds weighing approximately 1.00 carat total and numerous round single, old mine, old European and rose cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.86 carats total, detachable bail, together with a chain. Stamp: 82005. Estimate: $15,000-20,000
A Victorian Silver Topped Gold, Black Opal and Diamond Ring, containing one round cabochon cut black opal measuring approximately 11.53 x 11.42 mm and ten old mine cut diamonds weighing approximately 3.20 carats total. Estimate $ 7,500-10,000
Stay tuned later this week for the second part of the Bidsquare series featuring highlights from jewelry auctions at Heritage Auctions, Skinner, John Moran, Kodner Galleries, Alex Cooper Auctioneers, and Morton Auctioneers and Appraisers.