Auctions Leslie Hindman

Golconda-Type Diamonds and Signed Jewels Headline Leslie Hindman’s Important Jewelry Sale

A Pair of Platinum, Diamond and Mystery Set Sapphire Campanule Earclips, Van Cleef & Arpels - Estimate: $50,000-70,000 and A Platinum, Diamond and Mystery Set Sapphire Campanule Brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels - Estimate: $50,000-70,000

With more than 1,300 lots, Leslie Hindman’s upcoming Important Jewelry sale is arguably the largest spring jewelry auction of the bunch. The two day sale, scheduled for April 3rd and 4th, offers an impressively wide range – with multiples at every increment – of jewelry for every collector and budget. From a selection of lots with estimates under $100 to a couple of Type IIa five-plus carat diamonds with six-figure estimates, the mammoth sale hits all the price points any buyer could ask for.

A Fine Golconda-Type 5.94 Carat Octagonal Step Cut Diamond, measuring approximately 12.94 x 9.26 x 5.72 mm, accompanied by a yellow gold ring setting. Accompanied by a Gemological Institute of America diamond grading certificate number 7111040, dated December 7, 2015, stating Weight: 5.94 carats, Color: D, Clarity: Internally Flawless, Polish: Very Good, Symmetry: Good, Fluorescence: None. Estimate: $275,000-325,000

A Fine Golconda-Type 5.94 Carat Octagonal Step Cut Diamond,
measuring approximately 12.94 x 9.26 x 5.72 mm, accompanied by a yellow gold ring setting.
Accompanied by a Gemological Institute of America diamond grading certificate number 7111040, dated December 7, 2015, stating Weight: 5.94 carats, Color: D, Clarity: Internally Flawless, Polish: Very Good, Symmetry: Good, Fluorescence: None.
Estimate: $275,000-325,000

 

At the top of the pyramid is a perfect octagonal step-cut diamond (est. $275,000-325,000), weighing 5.94 carats and graded D color, Internally Flawless clarity and identified as Type IIa (or Golconda-type). The sale also includes a second Type IIa diamond, a 5.99-carat octagonal step-cut stone of D color and VS1 clarity (est. $250,000-300,000). Like the legendary Golconda diamonds mined from the source these rare stones are named after in India, newer diamonds identified as Type IIa exhibit the same purity as the old Golconda diamonds and comprise less than 2 percent of all gem diamonds.

A Fine Golconda-Type Diamond and Ruby Ring, containing one octagonal step cut diamond weighing approximately 5.99 carats, six baguette cut diamonds weighing approximately 0.67 carat total and square and rectangular mixed cut rubies weighing approximately 0.64 carat total. Accompanied by a Gemological Institute of America diamond grading certificate number 2175330514, dated September 29, 2015, stating Weight: 5.99 carats, Color: D, Clarity: VS1 with a comment that this stone is potentially flawless, Polish: Good, Symmetry: Good, Fluorescence: None. Estimate: $250,000-350,000

A Fine Golconda-Type Diamond and Ruby Ring,
containing one octagonal step cut diamond weighing approximately 5.99 carats, six baguette cut diamonds weighing approximately 0.67 carat total and square and rectangular mixed cut rubies weighing approximately 0.64 carat total.
Accompanied by a Gemological Institute of America diamond grading certificate number 2175330514, dated September 29, 2015, stating Weight: 5.99 carats, Color: D, Clarity: VS1 with a comment that this stone is potentially flawless, Polish: Good, Symmetry: Good, Fluorescence: None.
Estimate: $250,000-350,000

 

As to be expected of all jewelry auctions, the sale features a selection of impressive colorless diamonds as well as a handful of colored diamonds in hues like Fancy Bluish Green, Fancy Intense Green, Chameleon and Fancy Deep Pink-Purple. Important loose colored gemstones also count among the highlights in the sale, including a 5.03-carat Padparadscha sapphire (est. $20,000-30,000), a 104.27-carat tanzanite (est. $18,000-22,000), a 3.01-carat pigeon’s blood Burmese ruby (est. $10,000-15,000), a 2.51-carat alexandrite (est. $7,000-9,000), and a 429.28 golden beryl (est. $4,500-6,500).

measuring approximately 10.80 x 8.42 x 6.71 mm. Accompanied by a German Foundation for Gemstone Research (DSEF) gemstone report number 024710, dated July 30, 2015, Stating: Natural Corundum, Variety: Natural Padparadscha, Weight: 5.03 Carats, Origin: Sri Lanka, Comments: No indications of heat (NTE). Estimate: $20,000-30,000

measuring approximately 10.80 x 8.42 x 6.71 mm.
Accompanied by a German Foundation for Gemstone Research (DSEF) gemstone report number 024710, dated July 30, 2015, Stating: Natural Corundum, Variety: Natural Padparadscha, Weight: 5.03 Carats, Origin: Sri Lanka, Comments: No indications of heat (NTE).
Estimate: $20,000-30,000

 

Moreover loose gems and important diamonds, the sale boasts a number of exceptional jewels – both signed and unsigned – from the Victorian period to present day. In fact, the very first lot in the sale are among the most interesting of all the highlights. The first lot is a pair of Victorian yellow and rose gold bracelets (est. $3,000-5,000), circa 1870, signed by Tiffany & Co. and stamped Union Square, and accompanied by a fitted original box also signed “Tiffany & Co. Union Square”. In 1869, Charles Lewis Tiffany commissioned John Kellum to design the building that would become Tiffany’s 19th century headquarters at 15 Union Square West. From the day it opened in 1870 until moving uptown in 1906, the store was described as “the largest of its kind devoted to this business of any in the world” and dubbed the “palace of jewels” by the New York Times.

A Pair of Victorian Yellow and Rose Gold Bracelets, Circa 1870, Tiffany & Co., Union Square, attributed to Tiffany & Co., consisting of two matching hinged bangle bracelets in yellow gold each accented with intricately textured yellow and rose gold detail realistically depicting vines and leaves, the foliate motif centrally surmounted with intricate rose gold openwork monograms, the bracelets measuring approximately 31.00 mm wide. Accompanied by a fitted by signed Tiffany & Co. Union Square. Estimate: $3,000-5,000

A Pair of Victorian Yellow and Rose Gold Bracelets, Circa 1870, Tiffany & Co., Union Square,
attributed to Tiffany & Co., consisting of two matching hinged bangle bracelets in yellow gold each accented with intricately textured yellow and rose gold detail realistically depicting vines and leaves, the foliate motif centrally surmounted with intricate rose gold openwork monograms, the bracelets measuring approximately 31.00 mm wide.
Accompanied by a fitted by signed Tiffany & Co. Union Square.
Estimate: $3,000-5,000

 

Displaying the ingenuity of the French high jewelry house Van Cleef & Arpels, the firm’s iconic mystery-setting seamlessly sparkles in a pair of sapphire and diamond ‘Campanule’ earclips (est. $50,000-70,000) and matching brooch (est. $50,000-70,000). The mystery-setting originated in the late 1920s but became synonymous with Van Cleef & Arpels by 1933 after the Parisian jeweler patented their technique and began producing jewels incorporating their ‘Serti-mysterieux’ technique with abandon. The two ‘Campanule’ pieces were made by the renowned New York firm Oscar Heyman Brothers, who made a number of commissioned jewels for Van Cleef & Arpels as well as other high jewelry houses.

A Pair of Platinum, Diamond and Mystery Set Sapphire Campanule Earclips, Van Cleef & Arpels - Estimate: $50,000-70,000 and A Platinum, Diamond and Mystery Set Sapphire Campanule Brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels - Estimate: $50,000-70,000

A Pair of Platinum, Diamond and Mystery Set Sapphire Campanule Earclips, Van Cleef & Arpels – Estimate: $50,000-70,000 and A Platinum, Diamond and Mystery Set Sapphire Campanule Brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels – Estimate: $50,000-70,000

 

Several other important jewels by Van Cleef & Arpels in the sale include a pair of emerald and diamond convertible Day/Night earclips (est. $65,000-85,000), circa 1960; a diamond and tsavorite garnet bangle bracelet (est. $125,000-175,000), set with six tsavorite garnets totaling 15.16 carats, and a matching ring (est. $35,000-55,000) set with a 6.84-carat tsavorite garnet; and a suite of multi-colored diamond and diamond jewels – an ‘Ode Printemps’ bracelet (est. $70,000-90,000), a pair of ‘Aquarelle Century Collection’ earrings (est. $70,000-90,000), and a ‘Century’ necklace (est. $35,000-55,000).

 

Worthy of mention, too, are two jewels set with Montana sapphires. Known for their cornflower blue color and high uniform clarity, Montana sapphires were first discovered in 1865. They were not widely valued at first but became more appreciated after Tiffany began incorporating the precious, ‘home-grown’ stones in their jewelry in the early 20th century. One of the lots is an important Belle Époque bracelet (est. $75,000-100,o00) featuring seven square step-cut Yogo Gulch Montana sapphires altogether weighing 10.60 total carats. The second jewel in the sale to display the beauty of Montana sapphires is a butterfly brooch (est. $6,000-8,000), by Marcus & Co., which is set with 79 old European and rose-cut diamonds and 152 round mixed-cut Montana sapphires in silver topped gold.

 

Additional favorites from the sale include: a diamond and sapphire spray brooch, Harry Winston, circa 1966 (est. $60,000-80,000); a Colombian emerald and diamond ring, Tiffany & Co. (est. $30,000-50,000); a Retro ruby, diamond and sapphire brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels (est. $6,000-8,000); a Retro ruby and diamond quiver brooch, Cartier, Paris (est. $3,000-5,000); a diamond, emerald and ruby ring, Buccellati (est. $3,000-5,000); an aquamarine Turban ring, Verdura (est. $3,000-5,000); a Victorian Grand Tour micromosaic bracelet (est. $2,000-3,000) set with six plaques depicting classical Roman architecture; a pair of gold, platinum and diamond pendant earclips, Cartier, French (est. $2,000-3,000); and a yellow gold minimalist sculptural pendant, John Henry, circa mid-1970’s (est. $1,500-2,500).

 

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1 Comment

  • Reply
    Sanjeev kumar
    April 4, 2016 at 2:50 am

    Nice collection of the gemstone jewelry. thanks for sharing such a wonderful piece of content.

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